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  1. Today
  2. I'm chasing a maricat 4.3 mast hound tang. My ones hole is stretched & the new one I bought is too small.
  3. Last week
  4. darcy1945

    Rudders short timber

    Unless you are racing, stick with what you have. A new rudder setup complete, is worth over $1000.
  5. Maso

    Rudders short timber

    Hi Barb. Did you ever get the short rudders you were after? I am thinking of getting rid of mine (in favour of the deep, drop downs). let me know if you are interested. regards, Maso
  6. Earlier
  7. WANTED 1 or 2 windrush 14 rudder blades ***deep only...also looking for beach wheels
  8. Hello from New Zealand I previously owneed a hydra and am looking at buying another. This may be well known but I changed as per the following boat which made a huge difference in speed Changed the boom to a carbon fibre one Bought a second hand Taipan jib and cut the top off added 1 horizontal batten and 1 45 degree angle batten to hold the top out, What a Flyer, Although are a heavy boat with a heavy mast thiss is one cat I could not subraine although at thimmes the cross beam was in the water The biggest feature is the ample forward hulls and the great centrboards ( if you need them) I am looking for a Hydra 16 in Sunshine Coast sso email to ron.heydonnz@gmail.com I will post some hydra pics when I can find them Ron Heydon
  9. set of beach wheels 2.25 wide.. Melbourne/south west area preferred
  10. DeckChair

    Nacra 4.5 or 5.0

    Hi Mark, Thanks for you insight on the 4.5 and 5.0. The 4.5 seems to be a very popular and on point boat here in SE Qld, I am located on the Sunshine Coast. Being 90+ kg I thinking maybe the 5.0 and over the last 12months I have seem many 5.0s under $3-4k and most 4.5s $7k+. My preference was alway a 4.5 and you have now confirmed my choice. I am in no real rush as I am committed to travelling with my sons who is 14 Laser sailing. I will keep an eye out over the next 6months or so a hope a 4.5 comes onto the market at a reasonable price. Obviously I would be interested in your sons boat subject to price. Happy for you to call me on 0499 022 161 or text me your number, so I can call you. Cheers Stuart
  11. Mako

    Nacra 4.5 or 5.0

    Hi DeckChair, sorry for the late reply, did not see your post. having owned and raced both the 5.0 and 4.5. I can attest that the 4.5 1up is a much better and faster boat than a cat rigged 5.0. The 4.5 is a very quick single handed nacra and having the furling jib is a real plus for handling and tacking and often in heavy wind while racing upwind you can furl the jib and not lose any speed. My son currently races a very quick 4.5 (one of the best setup and tuned)that we are looking to sell if you are interested. There is a Nacra 4.5 facebook page that is a resource for info. If you go 4.5 you will never look back. Also the 4.5 has very active racing fleets in many states. Many of the 4.5 skippers weigh above 85kg and are very quick. Let me know if you want any further info on our boat or the 4.5 in general. Where are you located? We are in Brisbane. Mark
  12. Thanks for the update billy goat. I made a new halyard with 3.2mm 1x19 wire (closest to 3mm bunnings had). I've added the swage but can't remember which side of the mast the swage lives. If on the sail track side it seems the swage would have to run through the pulleys to be cleated on the side opposite the sail track where the cleat is. Problem is the bigger swage on the 3.2mm wire is too fat the fit past my new 32mm bearing pulleys & seems to only just fit with the original smaller 28mm pulleys.
  13. billygoat

    Halyard pulleys and sail track lubrication

    Quite a while ago... Re-releasing the bolt rope ended up being a bad move. Didn't move at all (ie it was as shrunk as it was going to get and not causing any problems) but I had difficulty sewing the extension piece back in position such that it wasn't prone to jumping out of the track when hoisting. At the same time, I scrubbed the track with dish detergent and replaced the mast top halyard sheaves with sliding door rollers. Now the sail is much easier to hoist and drop. Not sure what caused the improvement. I suspect the sheaves were binding on their axles under load.
  14. Great advice thanks.
  15. Pointed Reply

    Halyard pulleys and sail track lubrication

    And .... Most now use 3mm halyard wire and not 2mm. It is stronger and fatter and less prone to get stuck and the swage is bigger/fatter, to sit in the v notch better. And ... The swage needs to be about 270mm from the outside of the eyelet to the bottom of the swage to give enough length to un jam the swage. Your roller look ok ...
  16. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try them. When I'd dropped the mast, it seemed the crimp on the halyard was stuck in the cleat & once I released it I was able to pull the sail down fine.
  17. Pointed Reply

    Halyard pulleys and sail track lubrication

    Clean the track and check it for any dings which may have closed up the gap if it has been dropped. Check that the halyard is staying on the roller. If it comes off and gets jammed down beside the roller it won’t go up or down. When raising check that all the battens are popped one way and the boat is pointing into the wind. (not that critical on an older sail). Your mast head should look a bit like this ....
  18. I'm interested to know if releasing the bolt rope made it easier the pull the sail down again. I have released the bolt rope of my mainsail near the tack. Much easier to raise the sail but it seemed to get stuck in the cleat at the top. I ended up having to drop the mast with the mainsail attached to unclear it. Lucky for me there was no wind but it still fell the last bit to the sand. Any tips on making it easier to drop the sail would be great.
  19. Jish

    Maricat 4.3 Diagram and parts

    Ok great, thanks again Darcy :-). Got it mostly sorted now. New stays, dolphin striker wire, reinforced chainplates, extra hole in sail clew. Went for a nice sail yesterday evening. Super light winds but thanks to the low drag & bigger sail area I made it back to shore easy whereas my NS14 would have been drifting upstream.
  20. darcy1945

    Maricat 4.3 Diagram and parts

    Still need the single bungee under the tramp to the trap handles/dogbones.
  21. Jish

    Maricat 4.3 Diagram and parts

    Aha, so do I still need the usual bungee between each trapeze (port<->stb, under or over tramp) to keep the traps from flying around or will these rings do that too? Thanks Darcy 🙂
  22. darcy1945

    Maricat 4.3 Diagram and parts

    The jib sheets go through the rings, the other end is tied to the dogbone of the trap wire, when you are trapezing the jib sheet will be within reach.
  23. Jish

    Maricat 4.3 Diagram and parts

    Speaking of parts, my old maricat had a couple of bungees attached to the centre of the tramp with a ring at the end of each. Just wondering what they are used for & how to use them. I've got trapeze rigged & thought maybe bungee for that or possibly jib sheets? Thanks
  24. darcy1945

    Advice on Windrush 14 purchase

    Looks good.
  25. Hi all, in a previous post Darcy noted that I had some stress cracks in my Windrush 14 deep rudders that will need reinforcing and I thought this was worth a separate thread. Does anyone have any information or advice as to how to go about this? (Thanks again Darcy for pointing this out).
  26. Budgiecat

    Advice on Windrush 14 purchase

    Trampoline rail repaired and finally got some time to have a practice run of rigging the cat. All worked well and all the parts seem to be there. Didn’t set up the jib but all seems intact. All sails feel crisp and in good condition. Looking forward to getting it out on the water when restrictions are lifted.
  27. Tony Hicks

    Studless Trailer Wheels?

    Thanks Pete - yep you are correct, I’ve been looking all over YouTube but had no idea what they were actually called, just typed in bearing buddy and spot on! Thanks mate much appreciated. Sorry darcy1945 I’m away at work at the moment so don’t have any photo’s but should be right now. Cheers fella’s, thanks again.
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