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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hi Disco I live and sail at Barwon Heads Sailing Club. We have 7. 14ft windrushs. Races are restricted to high tides lots of fun. Plenty of summer campers have club moorings and store sails in club house. We have mixed fleet with plenty of Lazers too. A couple of hobies and maricat. Plenty of older Skippers. You could see racing there Aust Day Weekend. Portarlington Sailing club on the bay is a Great club as is St. Leonard's.
  2. 1 point
    I don't know anywhere in Aus ,where anything towed behind a vehicle, does not need to be registered. I would not risk it.
  3. 1 point
    Occasional whitecaps,10/12kts, OK. wall to wall whitecaps, 18 plus kts, stay on the beach unless rescue boat available (As it would be if club racing).
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    There are a lot of wrinkles in the luff so I'd pull the mainsheet in hard then pull the downhaul hard too. The main isn't right up to the top which either means it's shrunk or that someone has cut it down.
  6. 1 point
    Comments 1. Toss the vang, the only thing it does is prevent you righting after a capsize. 2. The tack of the sail (bottom) shackles onto the boom. The downhaul then attached to the boom. You therefore pull the boom down to tension the luff of the sail. 3. The clew shackles to the slider on the boom.
  7. 1 point
    Measure the longest stays (Forestays), if they are less than 5.5m, you will have to have the bow of the boat uphill for the mast to lean far enough to stay up whilst you attach the side stays.
  8. 1 point
    The long ones go on the bow, the short ones on the side. The large D shackle on the mast should have the long forestays in the middle then the shrouds on the outside. Rig the mast shackle then put the forestays on. Lift the mast so it's standing upright on the ground just in front of the mast step on the front beam. Once you have it steady lift and slot the base into the mast step. You should be able to do this in one smooth motion and just let the mast fall back with the forestays stopping it falling on the ground. Once it's like this you should be able to then attach the shrouds. What I've done in the past (and still do when it's windy) is to attach a rope (eg the mainsheet) to the halyard and then pull it on so that it is tight. The triangulation of the forestays and the haylard will make it safe long enough to attach the shrouds. In the racing world we use forestays at 5.5m and shrouds at 5m. This gives a good mast rake but if you've got an old sail the boom may be too low. When you start sailing and keep nose diving (going down the mine!) then you should consider this extra rake and get a sailmaker to put a D ring on the back of the sail about 150mm up from the old one. Would help you a lot if you could find a local club that has maricats. Good luck.
  9. 1 point
    Krispy, still plenty of parts. 1988 would be a Mk2 (Traveller track is part of rear beam extrusion, not a separate track) Give me a call on 02 43591729, for a list of things to inspect.
  10. 1 point
    Sailor Zane Bradbury repeatedly went down the mine at a recent Humpybong yacht club race day .. No attempt to release the mainsheet or jib.. just this huge grin on his face.. Apparently he doesn't bruise.. unlike the rest of us.. I would love a Mari to take him on when the seabreeze kicks in, Moreton and Bramble Bay get a vicious chop and the A class, Nacras and Lasers pack up and go home.,
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    You can do things to old sails to get some life out of them. One is to cut the bolt rope from its anchor at the bottom ( a few stitches). I did this to my Eastwind sail and the rope disappeared about a foot or so up the slot. A tight rope means the luff is crinkled and the body of the sail falls back which isn't fast. +1 on the rudder. Look up Ackerman steering. This is why the tillers are bent inwards. There's a measurement (which I don't understand!) but on cats your hulls go at different speeds and radius when turning. Stays 5.5m front and 5 rear. Remember that the tighter you have the mainsheet the tighter the jib luff will be. I would think you'd be in front of the Getaway and the H14 but behind the 16's. The Sailing Australia yardsticks should be an indication. Just as a guide we did a long race at Speers Point on Anzac Day. The line winner was a Maricat Super Sloop (foam) and was quite a long way ahead of me (2nd over the line). Once they'd unstuffed the handicaps (they did me as a SS foamy!) I won it. My calculation was about a minute ahead, Mark was a good five minutes in front on the line. I also noticed Mark (SS) sailing off the start line with jib literally flapping in order to get height. Once clear of other boats he bore away to use the jib for speed. Sand the hulls - don't need to go too far but maybe 120 then 600 makes them smooth. Same with the rudders they have quite a large whetted area - fill in the chips with Epoxy Filler. They talk about toe-in and I think this refers to hulls as well. I've seen rear beams that have the bolt holes drilled oval so the gap can be adjusted. Not sure what the gap should be though. Tramp should be as tight as possible.
  13. 1 point
    In my experience older tired sails are significantly slower upwind. I have a couple of older mainsails (I sail cat rigged) that have successful histories, but with my newer Chris Cairns sail my Maricat is minutes faster around a course. Upwind the newer sail allows me to sail higher and faster. I am overweight so need all the power I can get. A new sail is probably the best go-fast investment you can make on these old girls, along with some mast rake, and aligned and no-slop rudder system. One of the best Maricat sailors from the early days, Richard Eveleigh (one of the contributors to our tune up guide) had great success with a black Lee sail. He was super fast upwind. He now sails a foiling A class.
  14. 1 point
    Dolphin striker wire should be very tight with the boat unrigged. The aim is that the beam does not flex when the load of the mast is applied. Flexing the beam will eventually (or quickly) weaken it. It will also change the alignment of the hulls. Now completely off topic —- in your reference to the Sydney Heritage fleet - a couple of years ago I organised for a load of Douglas Fir spars to be cut and hauled from Bago State Forest (near Tumut) for the heritage fleet. A selection of logs up to 19mt length. There is a small stand of Douglas Fir trees which were planted as a trial in 1927. The Soren Larsen is now after a couple of 21 metre spars to replace their main mast. They will weigh about 4 tonnes each.
  15. 1 point
    The clear plastic tubing that connected my tillers to my crossbar (over the top of the broken flex links) went yellow and stiff, then split. Now I have new clear plastic tubing. The closest size Bunnings had was a bit loose, but nothing a couple of stainless hose clamps couldn't fix. Good for toe-in adjustments, I'm sure. I like the look of Pete's solution above. What are those ball joints meant to be from?
  16. 1 point
    I would use some older Hobie type ie 14 or 16 in used condition but too date non found I have been asking around a little , one other idea is too use the Nacra parts from Murrys in the USA I have included a pic only about $50 usd
  17. 1 point
    Another tuppence worth: Google "ackerman steering formula" and it shows what Ackerman really is. I think the tiller setup on new Maricats has nothing to do with Ackerman since the tillers are straight just a marketing ploy to make you pay more than your boat cost you just for a rudder setup! One of the reasons that the old format tillers are bent is so that an Ackerman geometry setup can be achieved. Google search will eventually find the right setup for cats. Can't remember how it worked but I think you take a line from say the shrouds to line up the rudder when they're hard over. In Whitworths: https://www.whitworths.com.au/riley-stainless-steel-transom-gudgeon-1-4 are the rudder pintles that we use to hang the rudders but I have a couple bolted to the tiller to attach the cross bar to. $7.80 each compared to $14.95 for the bungy joint version https://www.whitworths.com.au/riley-tiller-extension-universal-joint I think this is a good one though, no play but you'd need to keep them out of the sun because they just snap off when they've been out a few years. My understanding of aligning rudders is you do the ackerman effect by bending the tiller in on both sides. To line the blade up take a line from the bow back to the stern (middle) and line the blades (sticking straight out). Make sure they are both straight. I just bent them in (ie twisted the tillers so they curve inwards) and then rivet them to the rudder case. Can't remember whether you should rivet from the side or the top - side I think - less movement that causes the rivet to break. Mine seems to be right now - I can actually tack most of the time!
  18. 1 point
    Sorry, its all been sold a few months ago. I should have come back and updated the post sorry. By the way. I have seen the cat sailing again in the bay which is good to see.
  19. 1 point
    My first cat was a Hawke, which I bought from Hawke in Perth when I had a 1 year stint there in 1975. It was cat rigged. The sail was very flat cut and I found that it was an impediment to winning races, so I bought another one with a much better cut sail. It's selling points over Mari's and perhaps Windies at the time were:- Fuller in the bows to help prevent cartwheels Fixed rudders which could withstand beach approaches (Same as early Windies) Good in surf Car toppable! Yes! Owners fitted over-length roof racks, sat the de-rigged hulls next to the car, simply rolled the yacht onto one hull to hook the tramp side beam onto the racks, lift the lower hull to horizontal and simply slide it across the racks. The mast simply sat on the upturned tramp and was tethered to the front and rear of the car. A bloke at a S/W WA servo asked me what it was on the roof of my car. I told him that it was a set of pontoons in case I flipped the car over into a lake!! Very simple to rig with snap hooks and tensioning ropes on the forestays (like earlier Windies) The Sales person was Colin Metcher and he formed a mobile surf-cat club. Our home beach was Whitfords, north of Perth where at the right tide and wind, we could surf over an outer reef. However we had some great sails at Bunbury, Albany, Esperance and Yanchep, as well as on the Swan. If we wanted to sail under a low bridge on the Swan, we simply turned them on their sides and floated under with the current, which was the case when we entered the Avon Descent. During my ownership of the Hawke I snapped 3 masts in surf when I broached and the next wave hit the tramp whilst the mast dug into the sand! There was an annual Whitfords to Yanchep race in which I hooked onto a crayfish pot rope and marker buoy. It was impossible to unhook the rope from in front of the fixed leeward rudder whilst driving on a beat and I ended up bottled. Indeed they were a Mari rip-off but cheaper and fun sailing, quite fast with the right guy on the tiller. I've found my sloop rigged Mk 1 Windie much more technical to sail and more parts to go wrong, however a better yacht. to sail. The Hawke was well designed at the cross beam supports and cave-ins were unknown. So maybe the Hawke was developed pre-Windie? There are still a lot around. They're easy to identify apart from the logo on the sail; (mine had a stylised H), They have a 4 sided tramp frame with lacing all around. This is another feature which allows even tension around the tramp to keep it taut.
  20. 1 point
    Hi Phoenix, looks like Mark has put the Mari on the back burner or in the to hard basket (nothing recent on his blog). Keep us informed, on this site, of your progress, I'm currently racing a reclaimed/rebuilt Mk1 and find very little difference in its performance compared to current model and it is almost bullet proof in comparison, looks like it could go another 40 yrs.
  21. 1 point
    Mando give me a call, (02) 43591729 I have repaired/rebuilt countless Maris for friends and club members, and know all possible problems and their causes, advice free. No need to reinvent the wheel it is much cheaper to learn from someone els's mistakes.
  22. 1 point
    Your transoms look okay, are the bottom of the hulls okay? if they havn't used beach rollers you should check to see the gelcoat hasn't been scraped off by being dragged on the beach.
  23. 1 point
    Those cracks just look like paint/gel coat cracks. I don't know much about this sort of thing but I'd reackon you could probably sand it back and cut it in.
  24. 1 point
    Oh there's some funny shit on this topic. I'm only new at this and I haven't been game yet to go it alone with a jib cause I dumped my mari just with a main. I've never even seen anyone else sail a catamaran yet but I'm sure having some fun.
  25. 1 point
    I've seen Macca cartwheel. And me as I was laughing so much. A maricat nosedives easier than anything I have ever sailed. [This message has been edited by Emmessee (edited 21 May 2004).]
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