Pointed Reply

Members
  • Content count

    842
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Good

About Pointed Reply

  • Rank
    Junior Member

core_pfieldgroups_99

  • Biography President Maricat Association of NSW & ACT
  • Location Tumut NSW
  • Interests Sailing Maricats
  • Occupation Forester
  • Class of Catamaran Maricat 4.3

Profile Information

  • Gender Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

1,788 profile views
  1. Tramp tension

    Always good to have a second opinion ..... First is your new tramp cut on the diagonal ? If so you can pull it as tight as possible. The tramps on Mark II boats are easier to tighten than the older Mark I boats. The older original tramps were the straight cut with the lacing up the middle - they are basically impossible to get really tight. I think that the caravan track modification are not the best solution. Irrespective of which way you put them on they create a lump. One of the great features of a Maricat is the smooth transition from deck to tramp. I think it is best to retain the existing flat plate. Drill out the old rivets, take off the aluminium strip, clean up the holes, maybe dribble some resin in the holes, if the inner lip is very worn you may need to apply a thin layer of resin on the lip to close down the slot between inner lip and aluminium strip. Sand it smooth. Use long rivets to reattach the aluminium strip with some sealant on each hole. Refit the tramp.    
  2. Cartwheeling (nose diving)

    Check that your dolphin striker is tight before stepping the mast. Maricats nose dive if driven hard on a reach - that is just how it is. You can reduce it by racking the mast and de powering by flattening the sail. In strong wind you drive the boat as hard as you are game hopefully holding it just off the nosedive then ease off or dump the main, if you bury it sometimes it will recover other times it won’t !! Drop the traveller down. On a reach you can sit behind the back beam this greatly increases the leverage to keep the nose up. Can’t tell from the video but you don’t use forestays to the bows with a jib, the weight needs to be on the forestay in the jib.
  3. New Sails $$

    Another option is Mid Coast Sails based in Laurieton NSW. Rohan Nosworthly can make you a radial or a flat cut panel sail. Rohan used a freshly made horizontal cut main and jib at the Maricat Nationals last week end and it looked nice. He will give you the price but it would be quite a lot less than the going price for a radial cut sail.
  4. Maricat Nationals

    Day 1 of the Nationals - the day started light to moderate then blew up to strong. Four races sailed - 2 or 3 races planned for tomorrow. Sloop  1st Rohan and Charlie Nosworthy 2nd Paul McCabe and Jake 3rd Phillip and Ziggy Ewart Cat 1st Dave Younger 2nd Wayne Barry 3rd Rodney Anderson Super Sloop 1st Michael Colecliffe 2nd Mark Colecliffe 3rd Pat Cotterill 5.0M 1st Rob and Jade Fowler 2nd Peter Goldie and Rory Robinson 3rd Aaron Goldie
  5. Maricat Nationals

    Details on the Maricat Facebook page 
  6. Maricat Nationals

    A reminder about thr Maricat Nationals this weekend at Queens Lake. Looks like being the biggest gathering of Maricats for years. All configurations and levels of experience. Come and join thr fun.
  7. New Sails $$

    It is just Adams now - Geoff Adams - Warner’s Bay on Lake Macquarie 
  8. Finding parts

    Dolphin striker wire should be very tight with the boat unrigged. The aim is that the beam does not flex when the load of the mast is applied. Flexing the beam will eventually (or quickly) weaken it. It will also change the alignment of the hulls.   Now completely off topic —- in your reference to the Sydney Heritage fleet - a couple of years ago I organised for a load of      Douglas Fir spars to be cut and hauled from Bago State Forest (near Tumut) for the heritage fleet. A selection of logs up to 19mt length. There is a small stand of Douglas Fir trees which were planted as a trial in 1927.  The Soren Larsen is now after a couple of 21 metre spars to replace their main mast. They will weigh about 4 tonnes each.  
  9. Off boom sheeting?

    What size sheet are you using ? 10mm is most common but some people use smaller 9mm or 8mm. The thinner the easier it will run (both in and out) but is harder to hang onto. if you have 12 it will tend to bind in the wheels and in the cleat. how is the main sheet threaded - it needs to be a particular way so is doesn’t bind and so you can get  it fully on. There is a picture on a previous post or you can find it on the web somewhere - the blocks need to be at right angles to each other.  I’m no engineer but I would think there would be a mechanical advantage of having the loose end of the mainsheet coming from the fixed point ( the traveller) and not from the load end (boom). When you sheet off the boom the tendency might be to initially just have 1:1 power as you just pull on the boom.
  10. Off boom sheeting?

    What most do it set the traveller for the average wind then use the mainsheet for gust response. Don’t cleat the mainsheet - always have it in your hand with the ratchet on. Maybe only when pulling in the jib after a tack. Hull should be skimming not in the air i have never seen the main sheeted off the boom, you may have discovered something ..........  I would think that when on a run the main block will be a long way away with lots of extra rope and to adjust it in light or heavy wind it may be awkward and if you happen to drop it, it is a long way to go to get it back. 
  11. New Sails $$

    Main about $1600 Jib $600 ?  
  12. Another newbie with a Mari in NZ

    A few more pics
  13. Mari cat 4.3 Tiller Broken

    What do you mean by Tiller , the length of tube that runs from the rudder to the cross bar ? If so it is the tiller arm ? contact Darcy1945 for second hand parts or Mick Colecliffe for new. you will find their numbers on this forum in a few places.
  14. Another newbie with a Mari in NZ

    A few photos of jib sheets, main sheet and traveller