Badgered Cat

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About Badgered Cat

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday August 30

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Badger Head; TASMANIA
  • Interests Sailing, land yachting, motorbike touring.

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  • Yahoo
  1. 5.0 Maricat For sale

    Here is a 5.0 Maricat for sale in Melbourne. I am not he seller. I just happened to find it on Gumtree and  contacted the seller, to advise him of some info on the class. Cheers.
  2. Thanks Darcy. I had a very long chat on the phone last night with Grady. His advice is terrific, and he knows best, with the problems he has had with his knees. I will be seeing my GP on Thursday, and will be getting a referral from him to see a top sports physio that we have in town. So I will take my time to rebuild my body, and will stick with the Maricat and hiking, not trapezing. And who knows, I might be at the next Nationals. You guys are terrific. Actually Darcy, I will private message you, as I will be needing some parts for my Maricat over winter. Cheers David.
  3. Hi James.   Many thanks for your thoughts. I just dont know which way to go. I nhave thought about a larger cat, but then that is more of a bigger boat to handle with my ageing body. I am really loving the maricat since doing the performance improvements. It is very fast on yardstick rating against other yachts at my club. I have contacted Tynor in Western Aust, who make knee braces. They have recommended 2 types of their braces. So I might give a pair of them a go. As they are cheap at about $38 each. A lot cheaper than selling my boat and buying another. Plus this way, I can still get to race against Pete Morrow here in tassie next season, as my injury did not permit this to happen this season. And who knows, I might make it to a a Nationals Maricat titles next season (I wish to).   I will try sailing Anarchy and see what they have to suggest.   Cheers for now and thanks. David Banfield.
  4. Hi everyone. I tore and ripped my medial meniscus (cartilage) in my left knee whilst racing my Maricat on Australia Day. Just had surgery yesterday in hospital. Surgery took 3 times than thought, as the damage was quite severe. More than 1 hour on the operating table. Anyhow, the report back from my surgeon is that my cartilage in my joints are worst than the average person for 56 years of age. Plus to add to the matter that I have osteoarthritis setting into my knee joints. Anyhow, the surgeon has warned me that I am at extreme risk to be continually tearing the cartilage in my joints and in particular my knees. Now my injury happened on Australia Day when I went to tack, came inboard and kneeling (squatting on my knees to turn 180 degrees to head off out the other side of the boat. It happened ever so easily, and also at the same time i tore  and sprained my calf muscles (probably due to extreme hard hiking out the side of the maricat and back arched to get the most leverage possible. So my question is, has anyone else been in a similar case with their knee cartilage. I am aware of Pete here in Tassie with knee replacement, but mine is a different issue to this. Thinking about getting knee braces that will help support the knee, b ut prevent the twisting of the knee at the same time, as it is the twisting of the knee that tears the cartilage. Also wondered if sailing the maricat with trapeze, may or may not help. The only thing is, being 56 and having to race as a super sloop sounds too much for me to handle with poort health. I really dont want to give up sailing as it is one thing in life that I live for. And I really dont want to give up my maricat, as I have only been sailing it since Xmas 2017, not long at all, and really loving the boat. Even though I have raced and sailed many different yachts, including a lot of multihulls since I was 10, I really enjoy this boat more than nearly any other.   Please! Please help me with all suggestions and ideas that you may know of.   Cheers David.
  5. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Hi Mike. I gather you are in Bicheno, Tas.. Where exactly aft , is the separation in your hull.  If it is not where the chainplates are located then , I would not be bolting plates to the gunwhale. If you are good at fibreglassing then it will e an easy fix. Just check that the only damage is separation at the join on the gunwhale.  Look for any hairline cracks in he gelcoat, on the sides of the hulls, at the location of the said separation. If here are no visible hairline cracks then you probable need to just fix the point of separation. You will need to open that seam a little, you could use a couple of screwdrivers. Be very careful, as you don't want to open it up TOO MUCH!. Just a very tiny little. Then you will need to use a very thin file, or better still if you have access to a dremel tool or equivalent brand. If using a hand rotary tool like a dremel, then put a very tiny grinding wheel or disc, or abrasive disc onto the tool, to clean the joint firstly, and secondly with a course wheel or disc, to enable a roughened surface for the new epoxy to grip, by you offering a key to the surface that you have ground. Again DONT GRIND TOO MUCH. Otherwise you will be making a terrible big job out of nothing. If you have a compressor, blow out the roughened seam with compress air. And now also tape up using masking tape, your black gunwhale rubber, so that you do not get epoxy in or on the rubber, make certain you cover it well, and for the full length of the repair, and a little more each end. Also mask around the area near this repair on the hull, so as not to get epoxy on you hull where you don't need it.   Then using west epoxy or similar generic brand make up enough epoxy to squeeze into the gap. Put a tiny little aside to wet the seams. For the rest of the epoxy, may I suggest that you get a little chop strand mat, and totally shred it into very tiny little pieces, and you could also mix in just a tiny amount of microballoons, personally I mix up my bog mixture using just finely chopped and shredded chop strand mat, as this method offers maximum strength. You then need to wet the seams with the little epoxy that you places aside. After that, get a tiny spatula and collect a little of the epoxy bog mixture on the end of it and force it into the gap, just small little amounts at a time, until it is all done and completed. Remember you need to force it in, all f the way through to the back of the seam, and even if little amounts fall into the inside of the hull. That is why a just little amounts at a time. Let he job harden, then clean the edges back, with a course rasp or file, finishing off with a finer file. Remove the masking from rubber and the hull. Put rubber back onto the boat, with a bead of marine grade sikaflex, placed along that area of the seam, be careful that only need a small bead of Sikaflex along the full length, TOO MUCH and you will have a yuk mess to clean up, too little and it wont be enough to help bond the black gunwhale rubber. Use a rubber or wooden mallet to hit the rubber all the way home, over the seam. You may need a couple of clamps to clamp the rubber in place, until the sikalex hardens. It just depends as to how much the rubber has been stretched, in doing the repair. I hope this as been of help. I am a qualified and well experienced FibreGlass  fabricator and technician of many years, of which was building fibreglass Kenworth Truck Bodies and components, Along with many other fibreglassing jobs over the many, many years. So if you get stuck, or don't know enough, then please get back to me. If you are in Tasmania, it is a shame that you are at Bicheno, as I am near Beaconsfield, and I would have been more than happy, to assist you with this repair. Cheers David.
  6. Mast base casting (ball and cuff) for Hydra 16

    Converting it to a Maricat mast step, would probably not be a great idea. As the masts on a hydra are longer and a lot heavier. They are heavier not just because of the length but also because the section has 5 ribs in it. The mast would be rather horrific to try and lift vertically and place into the step. A friend of mine here in Tassie has just gone whole process of masts and steps for a Hydra, as he also has a Maricat. GOODLUCK.
  7. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Thanks exhogger. Mine is all fixed. Super, super.....massively super strong now, and was cheaper to fix than buying stainless steel plate and bending it. Plus it looks unnoticeable as a repair by comparison, and looking more very original, which is more to the class rules....I so believe, than having non conventional parts added to thee boat. I raced it last weekend, and pushed it ever so hard on the reaches, with the bows burying, and me just sheeting on harder, to drive it through the bury, rather than back it off. I absolutely punished the boat, and no way was it going to give in on me. So much so, that I was travelling faster than Hobie 16 and Nacra 5.7 on the reaches. And upwind I was travelling faster and higher than B14. So I think I have it all worked out. Going massively fast, and not wanting to break, flex, nor take on anymore water than just a few little drips in each hull, and that is after 4.5 hours of hard driving, competitively sailing (racing). I am very happy.  
  8. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Hi cdoch.  It is the way in which the part is manufactured, is what gains its strength. and avoidance of any corrosion. Carbon fibre has been used many situations where there is very high stress loads and in a marine environment without any problem. But making carbon parts is not for the amateur.  Anyhow it does not matter, I am not going down this path anyway, I will stick with crappy alloy castings, I may as well kept to the alloy on the side chain plates and kept the boat more original. As going to stainless steel, I dont get, when it is only on the side and not the front. But that does not matter now. I have now fixed the boat, and it is now might strong. As I have boosted the strength in the glass  where the chain plates attached, and strengthened this npoint now to withstand the roaring forties, in which I live. Cheers everybody, and many thanks for everyones input, I really do appreciate the comments. (We may as well move on from this.)
  9. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    It all comes down to how you manufacture the part. There is ways to isolate the carbon fibre from being in contact of the stainless steel. I am not going to try and explain here, as it would be too difficult to explain by  messaging. Trust me, I know, as I have been in the industry for many years.
  10. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Thanks Darcy. I wont bother making the replacement parts. I suppose I will just replace the bolts every 4 to 5 years just to be safe. It would not have mattered here as to how much or how little the boat was washed as the corrosion would still have happened. It blew my mind away when I saw how much of the bolts had disintegrated. And yes my boat would be at least 40 years old, but I also know that . the bolts had been replaced at sometime probably in last 10 to 15 years, just because of the type of bolts used. And there was anti sieze compound showing on some thread that I could see, it being a pale yellow in colour.Where I live the air itself is very salty. It can rain, and in the morning you can go out and see and feel salt crystals over your car.  I will get back to you over winter when I disamantle the front ones. Thanks once more, cheers David.
  11. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    HI Rodney.   Why then did maricat owners place stainless steel  on the side chain plates instead of just staying with the alloy.  Maybe I should send you a photo of the corroded and eaten through stainless bolts......if I can find them in the rubbish.  I totally agree with you keeping the boats to original as possible. But who really does have an all original boat now.  The sails are different now to back then.  The boom vangs have been thrown away. Your boat even has additional angled brackets on your side chain plates, that other sailors do not have. As I mentioned in my previous post apparantly someone has even changed plastic conduit  that is being used at the rear of the trampoline for carbon fibre tube. And then there are the guys like myself, that has changed the downhaul system. I am not messing about with sails as in trying mylar or kevlar, I am not trying out spinnakers, or gennakers, I am only looking at reliability. If I need to replace my front ones with alloy castings, then that is okay, and I accept that. But I wont be buying second hand, i will be buying brand new. But I need to know from the asscociation what the ruling is. As I would like to be bringing my boat up to NSW in 12 months time to do the Nationals. And i am not going to be travelling all that distance and such huge expense to be told that I am disqualified before even commencing Cheers David..
  12. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Yeah James, thats what I have been thinking. If someone was to try to protest and ru8le me out of an event just for me making something safer, reliable and stronger, then I would be carefully scrutinizing everyone elses  boats. I have heard on the grapevine, that there are boats that have done away with the conduit for the rear trampoline track, and replaced with carbon fibre rod.  Now that is what I call going to the extreme.  As plastic conduit wont corrode or rust, and even if it broke, it is not going to be a big safety issue. I mean to say....I sailed my boat back to its spot on the beach, a week ago, when the trampoline ripped, so it would be just the same if a conduit broke.  Anyhow, I also notice those nice angled brackets on Rodney's boat.  Anyhow I dont need anything like that. My gunwhales are now well and truely beefed up, and there is no way it will even flex the tiniest bit now. I reckon I would have the strongest maricat in Australia when it comes to the side chain plate mounting points. Just finished it all off a little while ago. Wait for it to cure overnight, a slight rub back in spots, a cut and polish, and then bolt the chain plates on, along with the monster saddles. Oh and sikaflex the rubber strip back into place. She aint ever going to let go will have to rip the whole side of the boat out to do so. I am very happy with myself. 
  13. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Hi Rodney.  Thanks for the photos. Man your side plates are beefy and nice.  The Bow ones, are the crap cast alloy.  Trust me....they will be corroding underneath as they get old, and, they then cause electrolysis into the bolts.......unless you regularly change the bolts every few years fro fresh ones. Cast alloy and stainless bolts just do not would I be allowed to make carbon fibre /kevlar ones. I would purely be doing it for reliability and safety.  The weight would still mbe about the same as that of cast alloy. So it is not a performance issue. I would have ones manufactured in stainless steel , but that would cost me more money, as I can not do that myself, whereas I can manufacture in fibreglass and composites. As I am a retired skilled and highly trained fibreglass manufacturer. Having worked making components for Kenworth Trucks, as well as making components for HSV Commodore, and Tickford Ford Falcon. So if I was allowed, it would be of quality, and be of reliability. Cheers David.
  14. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Does anyone know if I would be allowed to race at Nationals, with ones made from Carbon Fibre /  Kevlar composite. As it wont cost me much to make out of kevlar with carbon fibre. It will be stronger than cast alloy, wont corrode, and will weigh about the same as cast alloy. But cheaper for me to manufacture than to have 2 custom made for me in Stainless. I really do hate using cast alloy on boats. It is a joke, and should not be used. I thought that is why Maricat did away with the castings on the side chainplates. Why did they bother, if they decided to keep them on the bows???????? (Silly).