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About knobblyoldjimbo

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  • Location Cairns, eFfiNQue

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  1. Finding parts

    Sounds par for the course! You could try Rohan of Mid North Sailes (I think) I don't know his number but others might.  He's certainly doing mains for a very good price and I'd bet that he's also done the plans for a tramp since he turned up with a very well presented boat the other year.
  2. Pointing up wind

    In superlight weather I pull the main in tight, then to counter the hook in the leech I pull the downhaul. When rigged do this - sheet in tight then downhaul - you'll notice the leech will fall away which in light is good but in medium means you'll not be able to point.
  3. Pointing up wind

    You can do things to old sails to get some life out of them.  One is to cut the bolt rope from its anchor at the bottom ( a few stitches).  I did this to my Eastwind sail and the rope disappeared about a foot or so up the slot.  A tight rope means the luff is crinkled and the body of the sail falls back which isn't fast. +1 on the rudder.  Look up Ackerman steering.  This is why the tillers are bent inwards.  There's a measurement (which I don't understand!) but on cats your hulls go at different speeds and radius when turning. Stays 5.5m front and 5 rear. Remember that the tighter you have the mainsheet the tighter the jib luff will be.  I would think you'd be in front of the Getaway and the H14 but behind the 16's.  The Sailing Australia yardsticks should be an indication.  Just as a guide we did a long race at Speers Point on Anzac Day.  The line winner was a Maricat Super Sloop (foam) and was quite a long way ahead of me (2nd over the line).  Once they'd unstuffed the handicaps (they did me as a SS foamy!) I won it.  My calculation was about a minute ahead, Mark was a good five minutes in front on the line. I also noticed Mark (SS) sailing off the start line with jib literally flapping in order to get height.  Once clear of other boats he bore away to use the jib for speed. Sand the hulls - don't need to go too far but maybe 120 then 600 makes them smooth.  Same with the rudders they have quite a large whetted area - fill in the chips with Epoxy Filler.  They talk about toe-in and I think this refers to hulls as well.  I've seen rear beams that have the bolt holes drilled oval so the gap can be adjusted. Not sure what the gap should be though. Tramp should be as tight as possible.
  4. Pointing up wind

    Oh, and thanks for asking, it's always nice to get the brain cells going.
  5. Pointing up wind

    VANG PRO's  Dead downwind - it prevents the leech from bowing in gusts giving small increase in speed.  In my old Mk 2 I've caught foamies this way. CON's 1. If you capsize you have to take it right off in order to right. 2. if you've got it on tightish it'll prevent the mast from tacking (rotating) when you tack. Going upwind you need speed, speed and more speed.  If the jib is in tight and the main is tight (remember that hard in on the mainsheet bends the mast which flattens the sail = good) then you sail for speed.  It's quite remarkable when you notice the boat suddenly pointing and then you're back on track.  It's very easy to point but the downside is loss of speed and then loss of pointing. In light, traveller should be centred (main tight) and in brisk let the traveller down a handwidth (main tight). If you have a Redhead sail then don't even bother with the downhaul - if the goosneck works it goes up and down for you.  Otherwise only enough to get the crinkles out of the luff. What are the Hobies?  16's have to sail quite low to get the speed, they go faster though.  I've only sailed against one 14 - it was sloop and I was cat and I overhauled and outpointed it.
  6. Tramp tension

    I just re did mine.  I bought new track and put it in reverse so the round of the track sits in the groove. On mine a good part of the channel was damaged so trying to go back to the flat plate wouldn't have worked. Before I refitted the track I got some scrim tape, 38mm and 25mm and laid it along the length using epoxy as some of the rivet holes were a bit naff. Haven't sailed since but I'm expecting a more comfortable ride without the hard ridge that used to be there. For bolt rope Jimmy Buckland has some which is quite hard and tough.  I didn't use it for this purpose, kept the Newcastle YC Chandlery stuff. With the lacing I start in the middle, back to the saddle across then up, around and back through the same saddle.  I've  seen diagonal lacing but I think that will create more flex. Still an absolute bugger to get the tramp back! I got rivets online: From  cost more for the postage ($7) but took three days to come.  Bunnings don't sell them. Pop Rivets, 6-10, Tonneu Rivets, 4.8mm = 3/16", PR024, (50pk)PR0241$6.05
  7. Very sorry to hear of this David.  I don't have injuries to report although I've always had dodgy knees so I'm possibly more aware of them. Although Mari's and Windy's have trapeze classes I would think that it might be better to trap on one of the larger cats, the Taipan comes to mind.  Having said that I still read reports of injuries and issues on trap boats too.  You could try as the forums sometimes have people with problems and sometimes solutions. Hope your recovery is quick. James
  8. Cartwheeling (nose diving)

    Watch a youtube on Laser sailing.  They are all over the place going downwind.  One I watched, I think it was a Worlds Gold Medal race - they never gybed going downwind always twisting and turning to get the most out of waves.  I think it was in Perth or Fremantle and Tom Slingsby won. Not disimilar to Maricats - change direction often and whenever you look like you're going to go down a wave into the back of another one - guaranteed sphincter clenchers!
  9. Tramp tension

    Yes, sail track is the best way, the flat plate has a habit of allowing the bolt rope to pull out unless it's well fastened down. Best with sail track is to put it on upside down - that way you don't hurt so much when you kneel on it by mistake.  Use a bit of sandpaper to clear out the slot - it won't fit perfectly but it'll do.  Use sikaflex as well to seal the gap. Rivets are big ones, look around in the forum and you'll find out the size - Bunnings don't sell them - I got a bag online.  They have to go through to the other side of the metal plate that backs them under the deck. If you're anywhere near Newcastle the chandlery at the yacht club has great bolt rope stuff.  It's like a solid rubber with a coating of some sort of woven stuff.  It has a tab on it because they use it for bimini's etc.  I cut that off and it works a treat. 8mm you need. For the end I use 3mm prestretched marlow rope that Bias used to sell.  I notice that Bunnings sell similar although it's probably not prestretched and you might have to repeat it after it's been in the sun a while.  I use electrical conduit and a blanket stitch so the line goes from the beam out and around the conduit and then straight back to the same saddle.  That way the length that's 'open' or exposed is minimised.  I start in the middle and work outwards.  Do it tight, then do it tighter.  Then use a wrecking bar to lever it tighter still.  Your new tramp will be cross cut so the tighter it is the more stable the platform. One last thing - use washing up liquid to get the sides in through the sail track - it's a bugger to get in but the liquid will wash out.
  10. New Sails $$

    I heard yesterday (absolutely terrific day sailing with about 8 maricats) that Far North Sails were doing cross cut mains for $1200.
  11. New Sails $$

    I think this is the one, hope the link works:  http://4hhAf1Ti.html There's definitely a difference between the way a tri-radial sail is managed compared to a cross cut sail, however on the course not much difference.  While not the Nationals, at the NSW States I won with a cross cut and Dave with equal points (subjected to countback) has a Redhead radial. I've had a Redhead too.  I prefer cross cut for their simplicity, only a handful of seams compared to twenty or thirty on the radial.
  12. Finding parts

    One of my Maris had a tramp by Baracuta. Also Redhead do one but I don't know what the price is.
  13. New Sails $$

    Tri-radial from Redhead sails (Gosford), Mid North Sails (Port Macquarie).  Cross cut from Eastwind sails (Gosford), Flowers and Adams (Newcastle). Cheapo's from Rolly Tasker but make sure they understand the measurement rules as they stuffed mine up - but for the $850 it cost it was acceptable.  They import to Sydney. Amazingly they stitched the sail then added the battens so there were lots of seams.
  14. Off boom sheeting?

    I tried it once but it didn't feel right. What I did do once on my Careel 18 was chuck the standard 4:1 and replace the traveller with a bridle from side to side with a connector in the centre - sheet was tied off there then went through a spring ratchet block on the boom. Result was amazing - fast adjustment (only 2:1) and easy to manage because the mainsheet effectively started at the windward end of the bridle.  Won a Nationals with it like that.  Did need the vang though - mine was a 32:1 cascade. Maricat nationals coming up next week - we'll see!
  15. Another newbie with a Mari in NZ

    I think Rodney means SWAGE but I guess that depends on what it's been capsized in! Forestays on modern Mari's (that is any one from any time that's used for racing) are 5.5m at the front and 5m at the side. That top mast bit - like Rod says hand span down from the top at the front should be a s/s 'thing'.  On the end of the halyard that connects to the head of the mainsail should be said swage.  The swage locks into the 'thing'.  The end of the wire halyard is then close to the bottom of the mast - I use a bit of thin bungee to connect it to either the mast, or the dolphin striker etc. With the 5.5/5 stay lengths an old sail will be right at the rear beam.  Those who still have them put a D ring about 150mm - 200mm up the leach.  A sailmaker would be best because you need to stitch it onto the sail.  Newer sails have a higher foot. For the dolphin striker tensions apparently (I've not done it) you loosen the rear beam bolts then tension the dolphin cable so that the beam fits straight onto the hull. The base of the mast should have a casting that has a male cone shaped piece.  This fits into a female cone shape on the beam casting. Darcy is your best bet for parts, he's regularly stripping old Mari's.  Mick Colecliff if you want to do luxury new stuff. Is your cat a Mk1 or Mk2.  You tell a Mk1 because it's got a separate traveller at the rear beam.  The Mk2 has the traveller moulded into the beam.  Also the boom is different, a Mk2 has a traveller track like thing moulded to the top of the boom, the Mk1 is just an ordinary boom which can break under big tension (so you use a mainsheet takeoff that's wrapped around the boom, not hung from the bottom). Good luck with it all.