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About knobblyoldjimbo

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  • Location Cairns, eFfiNQue

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  1. Keeping Rudders Down on A Mari cat 4.3

    That's an interesting one Rodney.  I had the 'new' ones on Sweet 16, possibly the tillers were thicker than standard but I needed to use a lever to release them.  This meant that I had to cut them back but how much is enough,  effectively one extra grind of the file will move them from too tight to too loose. I opted to stump up the $60 for a pair of CL257 which have a small cam to adjust the release.
  2. Repairing trampoline track

    Sweet 16 had the tracks reversed whereas my current cat doesn't.  The reversed track is far more comfortable as Rodney points out the other way sticks up. Installing the reversed track would do well with a good sand with 80 grit along the channel. Use Sikaflex to seal the area and make sure the river centres stay in place or seal them up. Rivets need to be long ones, there are sizes to use somewhere on this site.
  3. Stitching tramps

    Just thought I'd say, my tramp was losing stitches, probably because it's quite old for a 'racing' tramp. I need it for next week so the usual local people were out so I brought it to work (Newcastle). The boys at the North Sails loft next to the Newcastle Yacht club ran two sets of stitching around for $25. Oh yes, couple of weeks ago I bought some stuff to do the bolt rope with, it is solid rubber (or some other material) 7.45mm tube with a layer of woven stuff and a tab that they use for bimini's etc.  It should do the trick.  I know that last time I had a lot of trouble getting the right sized stuff - Bunnings were either too thin or too thick. I now have to get the bugger back on!  Washing up liquid is apparently the go to lubricant (because it washes out).
  4. Worn rudder gudgeons.

    It costs about $20 to buy two hatch covers for the rear deck.  Add a bit of sickaflex and you're off. I had the same issue, the pintles had worn and the alloy in the rudder stocks had worn too.  Lots of nasty play. Also some of the screws broke off when I tried to remove them. 1. I bought a ceramic hole drill.  I think it was 10mm, round hole with diamond bits.  It went around the 'lost' screw and all the way through the transom. 2. I acquired new(ish) pintle brackets.  I bolted them through the transome and used the old pintles inside the transom.  I used lost of sickaflex. 3. I got rid of the stainless bushes and bought a length of DELRIN rod.  It's 10mm so the rudder stock brackets have to be drilled out so it fits.  Once I'd pushed the delrin into place I then drilled a small pilot hole as close to the centre as I could.  I then used a larger drill eventually getting the right size for the pin.   Prior to doing this though I had just drilled out the gudgeons and used a bolt.  That worked quite well too!
  5. Keeping Rudders Down on A Mari cat 4.3

    You put a clam cleat on the top near the front. Then best to out a 2:1 purchase to the downhaul. Camcleat CL257 is a auto release version which pops open if you hit anything.
  6. AHA!  so if you're using one of the old stripy sails and also raking the mast with 5.5m and 5. forestays and shrouds then you'll need to get a D ring sewn into the sail just above the clew - I think it needs to be about six inches. Then you'll have enough space to properly pull the sail in.
  7. just out of interest Krissy where you just heaving on the halyard?  On the racing sails that I've had (cross cut and radial) what happens is that you get the sail halfway up as you describe, this is the easy bit.  When the design shape of the sail starts to form it puts a bend in the mast.  This means that you have to feed the bolt rope into the opening.  It's relatively hard because ideally you'd have a palm on each side of the sail acting as sail feeders AND pull on the halyard.  There's a sweet spot between the two but just pulling won't work. I had an Eastwind cross cut sail which put a definite bend in the mast once it was fully up.  This is way different than the traditional stripy sails but the Eastwind was very quick and had a great shape. I have thought about putting on those sail feeders and I just looked them up, this one:  looks quite interesting.  My Careel 18 had one that had two pieces that rivetted on either side of the mast the feeder balls were close enough to hold the bolt rope in place as you hoisted. One thing to do with your "old floppy" is to undo the stitching at the clew of the sail.  This releases the bolt rope.  Let it ride up and put a small piece of rope into where it was.  Bolt ropes get very stiff with age and sometimes shrink which moves the shape of the sail back too far.  Doing this will give you a better chance of getting a better shape.
  8. The first third or so usually goes up ok.  Once there is tension you'll need three hands.  Two to hold both sides of the sails so that the bolt rope goes into the slot, the other hand is needed to pull the halyard.   This is the point where you'll want an A Class because they usually just push the sail up the mast!! Like the others say, before getting the sail up look up the mast.  It should be straight, if not then you will need to loosen the shrouds.  To do this, attach the halyard to the mainsheet and pull it so there is tension.  Then let the shroud off a hole.  Rinse, repeat.  Once the mast is straight then leave the shrouds be, they just need to be tight enough to hold the mast in its step. Where abouts are you?
  9. Traveller car

    And that extra 3kgs is going to make sooo much difference!
  10. maricat sail track tramp mod questions

    3/4" is what you need and yes on every hole.  When drilling out the old rivets remember that there is an aluminium track at the bottom that needs to be clear.  This is what will provide the support for the new rivet. on one of my Maricats the track was upside down.  This worked well since the round bit was 'nested' into the slot but not completely. use sikaflex to bed the upside down track because there'll be some leaking if you don't.   I had a hatch on the transom deck.  This allows you access to the transom which you'll need to do at some stage.  when you tip the boat on its end all the rivet ends will fall down to the back and you'll be able to scoop them up if you have a hatch there. To get the bolt rope out tie a thin chord to one end to allow you to pull the next bolt rope through.   I always thought the bolt rope needed for the new sail track was thicker.   I bought the rope from a sailmaker.  I looked around and couldn't find the right stuff from anywhere else.  Once I used air line from Clarkes Rubber but had to get a 2 or 3mm line into the hole to stop it compressing, wasn't much fun! Enjoy your Maricat.
  11. V3.5 repairs and restoration

    Put your pics onto Picassa or another photo sharing site. You may have noticed that this site doesn't have ads, that means that the owners pay for all the space.  Most pics nowadays are quite large so there's a lot of space required. For example this pic which I took years ago was on picasa.  You can copy the image location there and paste it into here.   Now, if this doesn't show my old Careel 18 that's probably because the permissions on picasa are not correct, do tell me.  
  12. V3.5 repairs and restoration

    Clamcleat CL257 is the go for rudder blade hold downs,  they release automatically when you hit something.  Put a 2:1 on the downhaul for the blade, I ended up just using a couple of shackles. Definitely reformat the tiller extension.  Single one in the centre - I used a length of straight ag pipe that you get from Bunnings,  surprisingly light, goes over a piece of conduit which is then rivetted to the universal joint on the bar. If the mast rotates forget the vang, if you pull it on then it won't let the mast rotate or tack properly. Try to get hold of a six roller thingo for the traveller, they do need to travel!  I can see why the Arrows don't have one but really only when they're going at near to full speed when the rig is always in tight.  I think even the current A class boats have full length travellers still (but could be wrong).
  13. Jib Stay Length for 4.3

    JB yes, the standard method of dealing with old sails is to have a patch with a D ring sewn about 150mm up from the clew as you describe.  Older methods included lopping off the bottom part of the sail.  I put my shackle through the upper D ring and also the clew D ring to keep them together.  Then I bought a new sail !
  14. Daggerboard repair

    I'd drill holes into both and insert something like a carbon tube, or fishing rod or something.  Once that's set then glass it up.  Use epoxy as it's better at gripping.  You'll not get anything to bond.
  15. Maricat 4.3 Sweet 16 For Sale - SOLD

    Lisarow.  I've recommended Manno for Saturday or Toukley for Sunday.