knobblyoldjimbo

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Everything posted by knobblyoldjimbo

  1. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Good news well done.
  2. Mast base casting (ball and cuff) for Hydra 16

    Just a thought, if the mast section is the same then why not convert it to Maricat - get a base and support - guessing that there may be plenty of them around.
  3. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    David, just do it.  If you ever get to an official race then clear it with the officials then.
  4. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Those add on brackets on the side stays are interesting.  They appear to be rivetted to the hull.  Since you wouldn't be able to get to the inside because of the storage compartment it must be a blind rivet. I would think that it's the length of the stainless strips that are distributing the load rather than the bracket but I'm not an engineer. My front castings are in a sorry old state but with the 1/4 bolts I hope they'll work. On my Careel 18 it used big U bolts upside down for the sidestays.  One side of mine let go near the end of one race - didn't realise it, just wondered what the bump noise was.  It had corroded through where it was not exposed to the open air (ie through the deck which was ply and glass).  Changed them a couple of times in the eight years I had the boat.
  5. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    I can't see anyone having an issue with that. Building a whole new boat out of carbon, well yes but not small pieces. Do it. Your first responsibility is to make the boat safe. If you make the new piece within a similar weight then I can't see anybody worrying. I don't think the class has an official measurer any more either.
  6. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    On Sweet 16, which was an early mk1 I observed that the bow mouldings were just three al plates. I think it's different now but it crossed my mind that they could be repeated in stainless or sheet al fairly easily.
  7. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Try RF488 Ronstan chainplates
  8. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Not sure if these links will turn up as pics but they are pics of my chainplates. I'm not sure what is behind the black rubber rubbing strake but it doesn't look like there is any more 'padding'.  If it were mine I'd be taking the shroud anchors off then pulling out the rubbing strip (it should stretch, if not cut it and then glue it back after - I used sikaflex for a similar job once). You mention alloy but I don't think that gets a look in here.  Closest place it is, is where the sail track is fastened to hold the tramp. Definitely epoxy is the go.  Do a bit of googling because I think Araldite isn't what you want.  Sounds like do it yourself with resin and fillers is the way to go. Maybe squeeze a layer of mat in but a glue like consistency is likely to be what's needed. Then, based on these pics it's just a couple of stainless strips.  I think Sweet 16 had two wider strips that were curved.  Given that you're a bit handy maybe a C section to slip onto the gunwale and then drill through like mine.  The longer it is the better it'g going to be to strengthen the area. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UIR_spL8ukoW2kxUnNHroXFxUncWSEBKug https://drive.google.com/open?id=1dvztXCN7KKwHiMtgoirxUfIHfDj6XEiIAA On a Careel 18 I had, the hull/deck join had a tendency to break down and then leak.  Apparently the gunk that they used to glue deck to hull was of varying quality.  The Careel also had pop-rivets which made the whole lot much stronger. See what your Ronstan supplier has, may well be available as pre drilled and given that it's a standard saddle that may fit too.
  9. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Waiting for Darcy . . . . . On my Mk2 there are stainless strips on top and bottom.  Current advice is to use 1/4 bolts (I think, definitely one up from what was supplied).  I have them on the front but not on the back (job to do). Glad you have good memories to go with it.
  10. Broken Rudder Lever Clips

    Just use a couple of shackles instead of the pulleys.
  11. Keeping Rudders Down on A Mari cat 4.3

    If you look at Rodney's setup.  I just have a knot in the end of the yellow rope.  This stops it from shooting out of the 2:1 block. When I first put them on Sweet 16 we raced at Budgewoi in  fresh breeze.  I went past the mark on the upwind and had a fast close haul to the mark, windward hull was flying (and I was having fun!) - the cleat released and the rudder popped up.  Didn't matter and I just popped the cleat back in on the next leg.  On the beach I then adjusted the cam and it didn't happen again.  Without a fairlead you just have to lean back a bit further to recover the line.  They are alloy cleats so they don't let go when cleated.  Reseating the cleat just means gripping the hinge in your palm and squeezing on the tiller. Since then I've mostly had it happen when coming back to the beach and I've not let the rudder up far enough.  Look at Rodney's setup and you'll see that a knot won't go past the 2:1 block so that's how far you'd have to reach to get it back into place although when you're coming home it won't matter. Ronstan do a sheave-less block https://www.ronstan.com/marine/range.asp?RnID=423  which would be ideal for this application if you don't have a couple of small blocks hanging around although I've used shackles which work just as well.
  12. Tiller Pivots

    Another tuppence worth: Google "ackerman steering formula" and it shows what Ackerman really is.  I think the tiller setup on new Maricats has nothing to do with Ackerman since the tillers are straight just a marketing ploy to make you pay more than your boat cost you just for a rudder setup! One of the reasons that the old format tillers are bent is so that an Ackerman geometry setup can be achieved.  Google search will eventually find the right setup for cats.  Can't remember how it worked but I think you take a line from say the shrouds to line up the rudder when they're hard over. In Whitworths: https://www.whitworths.com.au/riley-stainless-steel-transom-gudgeon-1-4  are the rudder pintles that we use to hang the rudders but I have a couple bolted to the tiller to attach the cross bar to.  $7.80 each compared to $14.95 for the bungy joint version https://www.whitworths.com.au/riley-tiller-extension-universal-joint  I think this is a good one though, no play but you'd need to keep them out of the sun because they just snap off when they've been out a few years. My understanding of aligning rudders is you do the ackerman effect by bending the tiller in on both sides.  To line the blade up take a line from the bow back to the stern (middle) and line the blades (sticking straight out).  Make sure they are both straight.  I just bent them in (ie twisted the tillers so they curve inwards) and then rivet them to the rudder case.  Can't remember whether you should rivet from the side or the top - side I think - less movement that causes the rivet to break. Mine seems to be right now - I can actually tack most of the time!
  13. Tiller Pivots

    That's probably more than the boat is worth.  What about a short bit of that reinforced water pipe bent around.
  14. Tiller Pivots

    Neat.
  15. Badgered Pussy, with it's new sail.

    My tuppence worth. I saw the pic on FB, looking good.  You don't need to fly the hull any higher for performance (as opposed to fun!) However tight you have the stays once sailing they'll always go loose!  Bend in the boat, twist etc.  You need them tight enough to stop the mast jumping out of the socket, that's all.  If you shackle the mainsheet top block to the halyard you can get some tension but don't bother overdoing it. I rethreaded my foot straps out of the central tab.  As long as you get them quite tight I find that I'm drawn more towards the centre of the boat which counteracts the pull of the mainsheet. With heavy weather helm you definitely need to tuck the rudders under (further).  If it's close then get a file and file back the blade where it hits the alum stock.  Rodney showed how it was done - bash the blade down and look at the mark where it hits, then file.  On mine I get absolutely neutral feel - sometimes it goes from weather to lee so I have to be aware all the time.  I did glue bits of rubber sheet to back them a bit but took them off again because I was then having trouble tacking. I remember hearing Ian Markovitch (Redhead Sails) telling some juniors that they should always centre the traveller even in high wind.  I've been  trying this and it does seem to work.  I think the idea is that if you loose the mainsheet the top of the sail bleeds the wind off.  Keep the outhaul on the tight side too - about a fist width is good. If you have a good ratchet on the mainsheet then you can avoid cleating it - that's usually when you capsize!  I find that I point up in gusts rather than letting the sheet out - bad I know but my old muscles aren't much cop either.  You can go to 8:1 mainsheet too these days under the class rules. Don't bother with a vang.  I used one a lot in the early days and in light wind, dead downwind it was good.  However, upwind it's a pain because it prevents the mast from tacking plus if you do capsize it prevents righting (don't ask me how I know that!).  Also with the Redhead sail you might notice that the boom goes up and down on its own (without the downhaul) so the vang isn't very useful. As noted above the boom will go up and down depending on mainsheet tension etc.  I have found that if you lock down the downhaul (most of the racy boats have a Ronsstan fitting each side of the mast you 'stick' the boom down which can prevent the boom from tacking (not good).  I've found that by putting knots in and not using the cleat it kind of automatically works so through the tack the boom pops up allowing the mast to tack then the downhaul is off which powers the main until you want to pull it down again. For tiller extensions - in Bunnings you can get straight lengths of 25mm ag pipe - it's the black one with blue stripes (it looks heavy but it isn't).  If you use conduit to shove up the first bit (I have about a foot) to connect it to the tiller.  I then have drilled small holes up it and threaded thin chord through to provide grip.  At the top I've drilled big holes which also helps.  For length it is slightly shorter than the shrouds.  Longer means you get it caught.  For very light weather you can push another bit of conduit to provide and extension extension.   Being flexible means it doesn't snap when it gets caught. Hopefully as you get to sail it more and more it'll help train what muscles you have to work better.  Winner of the Super Sloop NSW must be at least 90kgs, Darcy (4th Cat) says he's back up to 100.  Dave and I are about 70-75 and Rodney must be at least 60ks so a big range.  Technique makes the difference. Hope this helps - was fun writing.  
  16. Anyone dealt with Chinese sailmakers?

    There was a pdf file Rodney, do you have that?
  17. Anyone dealt with Chinese sailmakers?

    You should buy the battens with the sail.  If you were really expert then you might be able to modify the battens.  We can reasonably assume that the sailmaker knows which batten should be used (even if it does cost us a fortune) also your old battens may be too short (unlikely to be too long). Doesn't cost that much to ship a sail within AUS.  When I sold my Rolly Tasker sail I think it cost $50 to pack up and courier from NSW Central Coast to NSW North Coast. I've had a radial and it required a different approach.  Don't expect to be able to get it recut, I just don't think that's feasible.  There must be about 40 panels which leads to the other issue which is they have to be glued and stitched exactly in order to work.  In addition to that different parts of the sail use different materials.  The outer part of a Redhead is made with a ripstop reinforced dacron while the luff and foot are coloured standard dacron.  They do wear/stretch at different rates.  My Redhead needed the foot trimmed off because (after quite a bit of use) it started to flap and once it did that unless you pulled the foot really tight the whole sail vibrated.  That wasn't a hard recut - just $90 to chop the bottom off. Cross cut can be recut much more easily as there are only what five or six panels.  One of my issues with the Rolly Tasker sail was that they made the sail then put the battens in different places which seemed stupid to me. The recent NSW States - Super Sloop - Hot Pepper cross cut Adams sails.  Cat - 1st (on countback) Me Eastwind cross cut 1st equal Dave Redhead radial 3rd Pointed Reply Redhead radial 4th Darcy Mid North Sails radial. James  
  18. Anyone dealt with Chinese sailmakers?

    Give them a go. Bear in mind: 1. New sails here in Oz generally include battens.  These can be expensive to ship so make sure you know what you're getting 2. Somewhere there is a PDF file with the sail measurements compying with class rules. 3. I bought a new Rolly Tasker main a few years ago.  It was undersized when compared to the other new sails but otherwise was pretty good.  It cost $850 with battens.  I had bought their sails before for my Careel 18 and one of the genoas was made of the same material that Redhead use, ie a ripstop type material.  It was Dacron too but had this extra pattern - anyway I asked RT to use that but they didn't.  Sail was pretty good, I sold it to someone who did ok with it in one of the big regattas a year or so ago. 4. If you do order them I would suggest cross cut as it's relatively easy to construct (rather than tri-radial which must be a nightmare in terms of design and construction).  Make sure you get a high resin content Dacron. They are soft as a baby's bum and crack like a rifle.  My Eastwind sail still does that after ten years. 5. Jibs are a pain but I think getting a decent one is more a case of how you rig it (ie more mainsheet tension creates more jib luff tension).  I've not seen a really nice jib yet but I'm not an expert (I sail cat rigged). 6. Take pictures of your sail.  Put it up and put a string line from mast base to top of mast and pull the mainsheet in very tight.  You can then measure the widest point between the string and the mast so you can show them mast bend. Best of luck.
  19. State Titles

    You can always dig out the old Pointed Reply Rodney.
  20. Change of sail number for my Maricat

    Best of luck with the sailing. Anarchy is the rule today for sail numbers!  There is an official list and a sailmaker can apply for a new number which are allocated by sail, not by boat but many of us don't heed this process.  If you look at the Budgewoi facebook page where there are lots of pics of the NSW States' there are a lot of differing numbers, mine is 37, Darcy uses 27 on his foam sandwich boat and so it goes on. Really as long as the boat can be identified that's all you need to worry about.  Oh yes, Warren bought Darcy's sail, it was 5000, he then put a 1 at front and back so it became 150001 !  The 1's are cheapest usually. Mainsheet can be 10m but I think I use 11 just to make sure.  I've also put a strip of shadecloth tucked under the rear trampoline 'skirt' and tied to the bar and the rear beam to stop the sheet disappearing out the back which it did regularly - you'd be amazed how much force it takes to pull in a wayward sheet. I called starboard on a yacht the other day!  It didn't change direction, lucky I was fast enough to pass without incident!
  21. Badgered Pussy, with it's new sail.

    I think the tuning guide has some indications of rake. I assumed the tramp tracks were the guide ie get them flat and measure from there. Stays are 5m and forestay 5.5m from memory. It does look like the mast is a bit upright but that will help you tack. Rake helps to keep the bow from going in in heavy wind. Depending on how much play your gooseneck fitting has you might find that it goes up and down just with mainsheet pressure. Drove one of the guys mad! I find that I have a lot of mainsheet pressure learnt with a redhead sail but I do the same with my crosscut sail.
  22. State Titles

    Results are in.  Afraid I can't paste it in here, my allowance is so small now.  I guess it keeps the costs down for the owners. I've put the results onto the Budgewoi Sailing Club Facebook page as this is the only place that I can think of that is freely available. James
  23. State Titles

    Found it at last!   http://www.sailing.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/171201-Australian-Sailing-Yardsticks-Catamarans-17_18.pdf Pity that wasn't printed out and used by everyone. My request for a recalc stands.
  24. State Titles

    You mention 2017/18 yardsticks Rod, can't see anything other than 2016/17 on the wonder web.
  25. State Titles

    Daisy - the cow!  I always had trouble tacking the bloody thing! So do you have the data set for Sailwave showing the original elapsed times Rodney?