knobblyoldjimbo

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Everything posted by knobblyoldjimbo

  1. Worn rudder gudgeons.

    It costs about $20 to buy two hatch covers for the rear deck.  Add a bit of sickaflex and you're off. I had the same issue, the pintles had worn and the alloy in the rudder stocks had worn too.  Lots of nasty play. Also some of the screws broke off when I tried to remove them. 1. I bought a ceramic hole drill.  I think it was 10mm, round hole with diamond bits.  It went around the 'lost' screw and all the way through the transom. 2. I acquired new(ish) pintle brackets.  I bolted them through the transome and used the old pintles inside the transom.  I used lost of sickaflex. 3. I got rid of the stainless bushes and bought a length of DELRIN rod.  It's 10mm so the rudder stock brackets have to be drilled out so it fits.  Once I'd pushed the delrin into place I then drilled a small pilot hole as close to the centre as I could.  I then used a larger drill eventually getting the right size for the pin.   Prior to doing this though I had just drilled out the gudgeons and used a bolt.  That worked quite well too!
  2. Keeping Rudders Down on A Mari cat 4.3

    You put a clam cleat on the top near the front. Then best to out a 2:1 purchase to the downhaul. Camcleat CL257 is a auto release version which pops open if you hit anything.
  3. AHA!  so if you're using one of the old stripy sails and also raking the mast with 5.5m and 5. forestays and shrouds then you'll need to get a D ring sewn into the sail just above the clew - I think it needs to be about six inches. Then you'll have enough space to properly pull the sail in.
  4. just out of interest Krissy where you just heaving on the halyard?  On the racing sails that I've had (cross cut and radial) what happens is that you get the sail halfway up as you describe, this is the easy bit.  When the design shape of the sail starts to form it puts a bend in the mast.  This means that you have to feed the bolt rope into the opening.  It's relatively hard because ideally you'd have a palm on each side of the sail acting as sail feeders AND pull on the halyard.  There's a sweet spot between the two but just pulling won't work. I had an Eastwind cross cut sail which put a definite bend in the mast once it was fully up.  This is way different than the traditional stripy sails but the Eastwind was very quick and had a great shape. I have thought about putting on those sail feeders and I just looked them up, this one: https://www.coastwatersports.co.uk/selden-composite-sail-feeder-p-2417.html?currency=AUD&gclid=Cj0KCQjwub7NBRDJARIsAP7wlT9xLYF5EGgAxO3NZgqYaxdyz2pYieauk9rNZwLuK37EEINNcI1XlJoaArfHEALw_wcB&utm_campaign=products&utm_medium=BaseFeed1&utm_source=GoogleBase1  looks quite interesting.  My Careel 18 had one that had two pieces that rivetted on either side of the mast the feeder balls were close enough to hold the bolt rope in place as you hoisted. One thing to do with your "old floppy" is to undo the stitching at the clew of the sail.  This releases the bolt rope.  Let it ride up and put a small piece of rope into where it was.  Bolt ropes get very stiff with age and sometimes shrink which moves the shape of the sail back too far.  Doing this will give you a better chance of getting a better shape.
  5. The first third or so usually goes up ok.  Once there is tension you'll need three hands.  Two to hold both sides of the sails so that the bolt rope goes into the slot, the other hand is needed to pull the halyard.   This is the point where you'll want an A Class because they usually just push the sail up the mast!! Like the others say, before getting the sail up look up the mast.  It should be straight, if not then you will need to loosen the shrouds.  To do this, attach the halyard to the mainsheet and pull it so there is tension.  Then let the shroud off a hole.  Rinse, repeat.  Once the mast is straight then leave the shrouds be, they just need to be tight enough to hold the mast in its step. Where abouts are you?
  6. Traveller car

    And that extra 3kgs is going to make sooo much difference!
  7. maricat sail track tramp mod questions

    3/4" is what you need and yes on every hole.  When drilling out the old rivets remember that there is an aluminium track at the bottom that needs to be clear.  This is what will provide the support for the new rivet. on one of my Maricats the track was upside down.  This worked well since the round bit was 'nested' into the slot but not completely. use sikaflex to bed the upside down track because there'll be some leaking if you don't.   I had a hatch on the transom deck.  This allows you access to the transom which you'll need to do at some stage.  when you tip the boat on its end all the rivet ends will fall down to the back and you'll be able to scoop them up if you have a hatch there. To get the bolt rope out tie a thin chord to one end to allow you to pull the next bolt rope through.   I always thought the bolt rope needed for the new sail track was thicker.   I bought the rope from a sailmaker.  I looked around and couldn't find the right stuff from anywhere else.  Once I used air line from Clarkes Rubber but had to get a 2 or 3mm line into the hole to stop it compressing, wasn't much fun! Enjoy your Maricat.
  8. V3.5 repairs and restoration

    Put your pics onto Picassa or another photo sharing site. You may have noticed that this site doesn't have ads, that means that the owners pay for all the space.  Most pics nowadays are quite large so there's a lot of space required. For example this pic which I took years ago was on picasa.  You can copy the image location there and paste it into here. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8CuIlXWhDwhkO5uMiGPRkbdf01w1lBu5NIZjURRk6QljGRQcGXsTVhpb9fLzG_zNeku4gs4yw0xm=w293-h220-rw   Now, if this doesn't show my old Careel 18 that's probably because the permissions on picasa are not correct, do tell me.  
  9. V3.5 repairs and restoration

    Clamcleat CL257 is the go for rudder blade hold downs,  they release automatically when you hit something.  Put a 2:1 on the downhaul for the blade, I ended up just using a couple of shackles. Definitely reformat the tiller extension.  Single one in the centre - I used a length of straight ag pipe that you get from Bunnings,  surprisingly light, goes over a piece of conduit which is then rivetted to the universal joint on the bar. If the mast rotates forget the vang, if you pull it on then it won't let the mast rotate or tack properly. Try to get hold of a six roller thingo for the traveller, they do need to travel!  I can see why the Arrows don't have one but really only when they're going at near to full speed when the rig is always in tight.  I think even the current A class boats have full length travellers still (but could be wrong).
  10. Jib Stay Length for 4.3

    JB yes, the standard method of dealing with old sails is to have a patch with a D ring sewn about 150mm up from the clew as you describe.  Older methods included lopping off the bottom part of the sail.  I put my shackle through the upper D ring and also the clew D ring to keep them together.  Then I bought a new sail !
  11. Daggerboard repair

    I'd drill holes into both and insert something like a carbon tube, or fishing rod or something.  Once that's set then glass it up.  Use epoxy as it's better at gripping.  You'll not get anything to bond.
  12. Maricat 4.3 Sweet 16 For Sale - SOLD

    Lisarow.  I've recommended Manno for Saturday or Toukley for Sunday.
  13. Maricat 4.3 Sweet 16  $1750 The earliest example of a 14ft Maricat still sailing and a tribute to the fibreglasser's skill. Sweet 16 has been extensively upgraded and refurbished.  Some years ago the deck and hulls were split and 'cleaned out' (please see the 'inside' pic - I'd lost the sponge!)  There are inspection ports in the rear deck. A characteristic of this boat is that the bows are narrower than the current standard boats.  Rumour has it that she'll nosedive but I've never done that - something to watch for with any Maricat!  There is also a rumour that she is down to weight although I think that might have been a while ago and she's had a couple of repairs since then. She has a Mk 2 rear beam with integral track. Other items: - Redhead sail - Six bearing traveller - Adjustable outhaul - Ronstan downhaul - cleats on both sides of the mast (adjust downhaul while hiking) - Restitched tramp with new bolt ropes - Renovated rudders - virtually no play - Adjustable rudder cross bar - CL257 self release Clam cleats (will release the rudder if you hit the bottom). Trailer - built like a brick S****House registered to July 17 - 13" wheels - tyres excellent - New bearings - LED lights - Large diameter jockey wheel. - New ball hitch Trolley - as shown in pics.  Includes new inner tubes (about a year ago) Sailbox - has a hinge near the back.  Base is good, lid is quite tatty but it's functional She has an exeptional racing record, particularly in the hands of a previous junior owner who thrashed the top Maricat sailor in the recent Mannering Park Memorial Regatta (until a late capsize!). I've done well too, I'm a light weather person and we won the Budgewoi Mad May regatta against the top 14ft sailors (Mari, PT), also got second in class at the Toukley Brass Monkey. Sorry about the pic, is the right way up on my computer!  Can send more if required or see my Gumtree ad.
  14. Maricat 4.3 Sweet 16 For Sale - SOLD

    Sweet 16 has been sold. Off to a new caretaker. Thanks to all who competed with me over the last three years. James
  15. Catamaran ID

    That's a CaperCat, sheesh they scrub up well!
  16. Catamaran ID

    its a turn around and walk away because it'll cost a heap to get going and will probably go like a slug Cat !
  17. Maricat Hiking Stick Needed

    When I google this:  tiller universal joint I get pics of the Holt or Ronstan uerthane UJ so you can see what they look like. As far as replacing your tiller then you have lots of alternatives.  Like Rodney says, conduit, bamboo etc.  I use 12mm ag pipe that you can buy in straight lengths from Bunnings.  At the UJ end I have about a foot of conduit which then goes onto the UJ perfectly, in my case with rivets.  I've drilled holes in mine and wound 2mm vb chord to provide grip. For really light days I have a length of conduit that fits into the ag pipe to provide extra extension. I find the ag pipe to be lighter than conduit and it also bends so when I put the boat on its side and forget the extension it just bends, doesn't break.    
  18. Maricat Hiking Stick Needed

    Try Darcy, he's got buckets of bits.  He might have a replacement.  Otherwise there's a rubbery universal joint that quite a few use.  One snapped on me once so I don't like them any more.   A battlestick is guaranteed to bend!  Particularly the expensive telescopic ones!
  19. Cracked hull, has been parted out

    You'd need to grind out the crack - do it further than the current damage. Then you'd need to use some sort of bog.  I would be inclined to mix up some epoxy then mix in some chopped strand so that the repair is strong.  You need to get chopped strand that works with epoxy, the stuff they use to keep it together needs to be soluble by the resin.  I've done this also by chopping up mat with scissors. Most people will do this with polyester resin but reading the interweb indicates that epoxy is far better for mechanical bonds ie glueing one bit to another.  Poly resin is only of benefit when actually building the boat.  Read it up yourself.  Epoxy is more flexible too, it takes much longer to set so working times are longer. If you get some brown packing tape and reverse it so the unsticky bit is on the glued patch and then stick tape to the sticky bit you can get a very smooth finish particularly if you rub along the patch.  Slap a bit of paint on and your good to go, or at least till the next crack appears. I understand boat builders use a bog like toothpaste to glue the top and bottom together.  My Careel 18 also had pop rivets as well.  Eventually the bog goes powdery and lets go.  
  20. Trampoline mesh fabric supplier Sydney

    If you're interested in the Central Coast, contact Darcy (his number is in the for sale and Maricat sections) he knows a guy in Mannering Park (Graham I think) who does this sort of stuff.  He restitched my Maricat tramp.  Subsequently I also cut off the hiking straps and reworked them with new ones, mine are adjustable at both ends.  In the front, I burned small holes in the tramp with a soldering iron and put in a plastic grommet from Bunnings (about $3 for ten) and put the spectra through there and onto saddles on the front beam.
  21. Trampoline material for Caper Cat

    Risk is that your new tramp will become a sail so when you lift a hull the wind will get underneath and flip you over. In the Maricats we use cross cut material that, when tightened up actually stiffens the whole platform.
  22. Maricat 4.3 Sweet 16 For Sale

    Please see the for sale section.   Lots of pics on the Gumtree ad.   $1750  number 0403 079 718
  23. Boat Insurance

    Have you tried Yachting NSW, insurance through Nautilus I think. Mine is $60 per year for third party cover.
  24. 4.0 Mainsail

    The class rules say dacron only.  The redhead 'flash' sails are dacron although they use a neat ripstop dacron. I would guess your Lee sail is $950 PLUS battens which put another 3-400 on - stil a good price though. Rather than rollers you could try hardwood or fibreglass which spread the load over a greater area.  Rollers can / have caused bruising on the hull, generally on the front section.
  25. Recovery after capsize

    Steve, a local guy who sailed PT's (until he took off around Oz in his camper) had a small hatch in his trampoline, in it was a rope ladder for just this purpose!  The hatch had a velcro lid.