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Everything posted by knobblyoldjimbo

  1. Very sorry to hear of this David.  I don't have injuries to report although I've always had dodgy knees so I'm possibly more aware of them. Although Mari's and Windy's have trapeze classes I would think that it might be better to trap on one of the larger cats, the Taipan comes to mind.  Having said that I still read reports of injuries and issues on trap boats too.  You could try as the forums sometimes have people with problems and sometimes solutions. Hope your recovery is quick. James
  2. Cartwheeling (nose diving)

    Watch a youtube on Laser sailing.  They are all over the place going downwind.  One I watched, I think it was a Worlds Gold Medal race - they never gybed going downwind always twisting and turning to get the most out of waves.  I think it was in Perth or Fremantle and Tom Slingsby won. Not disimilar to Maricats - change direction often and whenever you look like you're going to go down a wave into the back of another one - guaranteed sphincter clenchers!
  3. Tramp tension

    Yes, sail track is the best way, the flat plate has a habit of allowing the bolt rope to pull out unless it's well fastened down. Best with sail track is to put it on upside down - that way you don't hurt so much when you kneel on it by mistake.  Use a bit of sandpaper to clear out the slot - it won't fit perfectly but it'll do.  Use sikaflex as well to seal the gap. Rivets are big ones, look around in the forum and you'll find out the size - Bunnings don't sell them - I got a bag online.  They have to go through to the other side of the metal plate that backs them under the deck. If you're anywhere near Newcastle the chandlery at the yacht club has great bolt rope stuff.  It's like a solid rubber with a coating of some sort of woven stuff.  It has a tab on it because they use it for bimini's etc.  I cut that off and it works a treat. 8mm you need. For the end I use 3mm prestretched marlow rope that Bias used to sell.  I notice that Bunnings sell similar although it's probably not prestretched and you might have to repeat it after it's been in the sun a while.  I use electrical conduit and a blanket stitch so the line goes from the beam out and around the conduit and then straight back to the same saddle.  That way the length that's 'open' or exposed is minimised.  I start in the middle and work outwards.  Do it tight, then do it tighter.  Then use a wrecking bar to lever it tighter still.  Your new tramp will be cross cut so the tighter it is the more stable the platform. One last thing - use washing up liquid to get the sides in through the sail track - it's a bugger to get in but the liquid will wash out.
  4. New Sails $$

    I heard yesterday (absolutely terrific day sailing with about 8 maricats) that Far North Sails were doing cross cut mains for $1200.
  5. New Sails $$

    I think this is the one, hope the link works:  http://4hhAf1Ti.html There's definitely a difference between the way a tri-radial sail is managed compared to a cross cut sail, however on the course not much difference.  While not the Nationals, at the NSW States I won with a cross cut and Dave with equal points (subjected to countback) has a Redhead radial. I've had a Redhead too.  I prefer cross cut for their simplicity, only a handful of seams compared to twenty or thirty on the radial.
  6. Finding parts

    One of my Maris had a tramp by Baracuta. Also Redhead do one but I don't know what the price is.
  7. New Sails $$

    Tri-radial from Redhead sails (Gosford), Mid North Sails (Port Macquarie).  Cross cut from Eastwind sails (Gosford), Flowers and Adams (Newcastle). Cheapo's from Rolly Tasker but make sure they understand the measurement rules as they stuffed mine up - but for the $850 it cost it was acceptable.  They import to Sydney. Amazingly they stitched the sail then added the battens so there were lots of seams.
  8. Off boom sheeting?

    I tried it once but it didn't feel right. What I did do once on my Careel 18 was chuck the standard 4:1 and replace the traveller with a bridle from side to side with a connector in the centre - sheet was tied off there then went through a spring ratchet block on the boom. Result was amazing - fast adjustment (only 2:1) and easy to manage because the mainsheet effectively started at the windward end of the bridle.  Won a Nationals with it like that.  Did need the vang though - mine was a 32:1 cascade. Maricat nationals coming up next week - we'll see!
  9. Another newbie with a Mari in NZ

    I think Rodney means SWAGE but I guess that depends on what it's been capsized in! Forestays on modern Mari's (that is any one from any time that's used for racing) are 5.5m at the front and 5m at the side. That top mast bit - like Rod says hand span down from the top at the front should be a s/s 'thing'.  On the end of the halyard that connects to the head of the mainsail should be said swage.  The swage locks into the 'thing'.  The end of the wire halyard is then close to the bottom of the mast - I use a bit of thin bungee to connect it to either the mast, or the dolphin striker etc. With the 5.5/5 stay lengths an old sail will be right at the rear beam.  Those who still have them put a D ring about 150mm - 200mm up the leach.  A sailmaker would be best because you need to stitch it onto the sail.  Newer sails have a higher foot. For the dolphin striker tensions apparently (I've not done it) you loosen the rear beam bolts then tension the dolphin cable so that the beam fits straight onto the hull. The base of the mast should have a casting that has a male cone shaped piece.  This fits into a female cone shape on the beam casting. Darcy is your best bet for parts, he's regularly stripping old Mari's.  Mick Colecliff if you want to do luxury new stuff. Is your cat a Mk1 or Mk2.  You tell a Mk1 because it's got a separate traveller at the rear beam.  The Mk2 has the traveller moulded into the beam.  Also the boom is different, a Mk2 has a traveller track like thing moulded to the top of the boom, the Mk1 is just an ordinary boom which can break under big tension (so you use a mainsheet takeoff that's wrapped around the boom, not hung from the bottom). Good luck with it all.
  10. Wanted - Used Mainsail 14ft Windrush

    So.  Probably about $100 to ship the sails.  That's all you want isn't it. 
  11. Wanted - Used Mainsail 14ft Windrush

    Look at Dave's ad below this.  Basically brand new set of sails with a boat thrown in.
  12. I fixed my transom and survived!

    One of my projects this weekend was to fix my transom. I did the following: 1. After trying unsuccessfully to remove the pintle screws I ground them off to remove the pintles 2. I hit the screws a lot (as mentioned by Darcy) which eventually broke away the inside piece of alum moulding.  I had rear hatches which made the whole game possible so first order would be to put these in! 3. I did a lot of pulling out and cleaning up of all the rubbish from inside.  There is quite a big 'lip' all around the deck to hull joint.  I elected not to remove this. 4. I made a piece of 6mm marine ply backing - odd shape but got it so it was close to the transom.  It had to be narrow enough to go through the hatch. 5. I had some triax cloth (three layers, different angles) which makes a nice thick pad of glass.  Cut two pieces. 6. Mixed epoxy resin.  Jimmy Buckland said 5:1 by weight - well I did try and it did certainly get hot! 7. Got the first piece of cloth wet, nice and sloppy. 8. Managed to get it into the hull without dripping too much on the surrounds (if you have to cut new hatches in don't install them until you've put the wet cloth inside - tends to bung up the threads).  Used latex gloves (about 20 of them!) to push the piece onto the transom. 9. With the ply I cut up a lot of fibreglass tape (didn't have any chopped strand) and mixed it into the resin.  This provided a bit of 'bog' to put onto the back of the ply. 10. I put the ply against the mat against the rear of the transom.  I then screwed a s/s screw through the back and into the ply to hold it in position. 11. I wet out another piece of mat and bogged it against the ply.  It was much bigger so it also bogged against the transom.  12. I put some more 'bog' into the drain hole and a couple of pieces of fg tape against the pintle mounting points. 13. Next morning I drilled through the ply. 14. I got some Sikaflex that's been in the freezer for years and pulled some up into a syringe and squeezed it into the holes. 15. 35mm x 6mm bolts with two washers (one standard, one large) and a nyloc nut.  Doing the top screws was VERY hard because I'd left the lip in place but eventually got the thread on and bolted it all up. 16. Got the cheapest Bunnings Colourbond spary paint and gave it about five coats. I think the fact that the original plug for the drain holes that I did with epoxy filler seemed to be loose may have been the main reason for the leaks! Testing next weekend.   J
  13. Cartwheeling (nose diving)

    I'd think: 1. two up and 160kgs is well over the top, not surprising you went over 2. when the breeze comes up we tend to pull everything in - outhaul, downhaul, luff tension - remember that it you tension the jib luff that'll try to pull the mast upright. 3. with rake on a cat rig you have 5.5m forestays and 5m shrouds when in doubt I'd stick to that 4. not seen anyone else fiddle with batten tension - I don't - just set and forget, leave the battens in and tied all the time, we're out of the cotton sail material now! 5. see note 1 I guess when you lose the rig then the boat will land on one side or the other - you got the short straw. Glad you survived it all ok.
  14. Mast base casting (ball and cuff) for Hydra 16

    There is a Maricat 4.3 mast with the ribs - used for super sloop boats.  I think I had one on one of my cat rigged boats - not as flexy or responsive.
  15. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Good news well done.
  16. Mast base casting (ball and cuff) for Hydra 16

    Just a thought, if the mast section is the same then why not convert it to Maricat - get a base and support - guessing that there may be plenty of them around.
  17. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    David, just do it.  If you ever get to an official race then clear it with the officials then.
  18. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Those add on brackets on the side stays are interesting.  They appear to be rivetted to the hull.  Since you wouldn't be able to get to the inside because of the storage compartment it must be a blind rivet. I would think that it's the length of the stainless strips that are distributing the load rather than the bracket but I'm not an engineer. My front castings are in a sorry old state but with the 1/4 bolts I hope they'll work. On my Careel 18 it used big U bolts upside down for the sidestays.  One side of mine let go near the end of one race - didn't realise it, just wondered what the bump noise was.  It had corroded through where it was not exposed to the open air (ie through the deck which was ply and glass).  Changed them a couple of times in the eight years I had the boat.
  19. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    I can't see anyone having an issue with that. Building a whole new boat out of carbon, well yes but not small pieces. Do it. Your first responsibility is to make the boat safe. If you make the new piece within a similar weight then I can't see anybody worrying. I don't think the class has an official measurer any more either.
  20. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    On Sweet 16, which was an early mk1 I observed that the bow mouldings were just three al plates. I think it's different now but it crossed my mind that they could be repeated in stainless or sheet al fairly easily.
  21. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Try RF488 Ronstan chainplates
  22. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Not sure if these links will turn up as pics but they are pics of my chainplates. I'm not sure what is behind the black rubber rubbing strake but it doesn't look like there is any more 'padding'.  If it were mine I'd be taking the shroud anchors off then pulling out the rubbing strip (it should stretch, if not cut it and then glue it back after - I used sikaflex for a similar job once). You mention alloy but I don't think that gets a look in here.  Closest place it is, is where the sail track is fastened to hold the tramp. Definitely epoxy is the go.  Do a bit of googling because I think Araldite isn't what you want.  Sounds like do it yourself with resin and fillers is the way to go. Maybe squeeze a layer of mat in but a glue like consistency is likely to be what's needed. Then, based on these pics it's just a couple of stainless strips.  I think Sweet 16 had two wider strips that were curved.  Given that you're a bit handy maybe a C section to slip onto the gunwale and then drill through like mine.  The longer it is the better it'g going to be to strengthen the area. On a Careel 18 I had, the hull/deck join had a tendency to break down and then leak.  Apparently the gunk that they used to glue deck to hull was of varying quality.  The Careel also had pop-rivets which made the whole lot much stronger. See what your Ronstan supplier has, may well be available as pre drilled and given that it's a standard saddle that may fit too.
  23. Advice wanted on strengthening chainplates...Urgent.

    Waiting for Darcy . . . . . On my Mk2 there are stainless strips on top and bottom.  Current advice is to use 1/4 bolts (I think, definitely one up from what was supplied).  I have them on the front but not on the back (job to do). Glad you have good memories to go with it.
  24. Broken Rudder Lever Clips

    Just use a couple of shackles instead of the pulleys.
  25. Keeping Rudders Down on A Mari cat 4.3

    If you look at Rodney's setup.  I just have a knot in the end of the yellow rope.  This stops it from shooting out of the 2:1 block. When I first put them on Sweet 16 we raced at Budgewoi in  fresh breeze.  I went past the mark on the upwind and had a fast close haul to the mark, windward hull was flying (and I was having fun!) - the cleat released and the rudder popped up.  Didn't matter and I just popped the cleat back in on the next leg.  On the beach I then adjusted the cam and it didn't happen again.  Without a fairlead you just have to lean back a bit further to recover the line.  They are alloy cleats so they don't let go when cleated.  Reseating the cleat just means gripping the hinge in your palm and squeezing on the tiller. Since then I've mostly had it happen when coming back to the beach and I've not let the rudder up far enough.  Look at Rodney's setup and you'll see that a knot won't go past the 2:1 block so that's how far you'd have to reach to get it back into place although when you're coming home it won't matter. Ronstan do a sheave-less block  which would be ideal for this application if you don't have a couple of small blocks hanging around although I've used shackles which work just as well.