darcy1945

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About darcy1945

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core_pfieldgroups_99

  • Location lake macquarie.nsw. aust
  • Interests promote affordable sailing
  • Occupation retired
  1. The mast section is the same as Maricat 4.3, but the base and support are different style.
  2.    Most Mk1s would be 40/50 years old and some still turn up with useable cast alloy bits (depends on maintenance and a regular rinse)Stainless and Al are a long way apart on the galvanic scale, so electrolysis is a problem, that's why we reassemble our boats using dissimilar metal compound (usually Duralac) between stainless and Al and on all Al rivets.   You will be welcome at state or nat champs, but I would not turn up with carbon fibre parts and expect no reaction, specially on parts that the manufacturer still supplies. As the current measurer, and a thoroughly easy going bloke, I would offer you the loan of a set of castings to head of any action.                           
  3. Great original condition 4.3, $1000

    02 43591729, Mannering Pk NSW 2259, White hulls, yellow decks, multi coloured sails, good unreg trlr (rego available at extra) All in almost as new cond. Original tramp (Centre tension).
  4. Front castings should clean up (I have them if yours break), $20 each side.
  5. A photo of the damage would help, If you are not worried about appearance (I wouldn't) just grind of gelcoat for about 4" either side and below damage and glass up I can supply the stainless Mk2 fittings (Replaces the cast alloy) modified with 1/4" saddles an bolts (As fitted to current models). You can also spread the load with triangular stainless plates bolted to the hull and folded 90 degrees and bolted to the 4 bolts already through the gunnel, you can cut out part of the storage compartment to gain internal access. Give me a call if i've confused you. 02 43591729.  
  6. Tiller Pivots

    Similar to Petes' solution, I just use ronstan pintles (similar to what is bolted to the transom) with 1" space, riveted to tiller inside face, then Rods idea for crossbar adjustment. The crossbar ends have to be rounded so they don't bind. Fit hem to the crossbar first, to get best alignment with tillers.  
  7. Broken Rudder Lever Clips

    In leu of auto kickup, a 3" loop of 10mm bungee in the fixed end of the 2 to 1 system, works great and protects from transom damage.
  8. Have a good 2nd hand radial cut main 4 sale $400. 02 43591729
  9. Extremely good original cond, Mk2 Mari, Sloop rig, on trlr, $1000, can carry out race rig mods if required. Ph 02 43591729
  10. Trying to contact Darcy1945

    Been of the site, sorry, back now.
  11. Finding parts

    Ring Graham Stephens, 0411080064, for Tramps, Last price I had was $280.
  12. State Titles

    Where did Rod dig up those weights and ages ? My scales read 5kg heavier, damn.
  13. Most of the guys on this site are old farts who sail cat rig 4.3. The young blokes, some as young as 40/50, sail super sloop (These are mostly the guys with their original hips and knees)
  14. If you lay your old sail on top of the race sail, you will see that there is more luff curve on the race sail (This curve gives the depth/power to the sail) your old coloured sail will be much flatter (Less depth/power) As Pointed Reply (Rod), has said, this extra curve causes extra friction between the mast and the front of the battens. Some deep mains, (Usually for us fat boys) need the batten tensions adjusted after the sail is raised (i.e. lay the boat over to tension battens) I have found that my race sail goes up easier if the mast is vertical (Beach wheels under rear of hulls)
  15. Yet another newbie advice thread

    Agree with most of Prince Planets' advice. Personally I would not consider buying until you have visited the local clubs, find a strong fleet that you think may suit, and chat to member/owners, some body will probably offer you a ride. Don't buy without getting back on here for advice.