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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/17/2013 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    A water sports helmet saved me a trip in an ambulance today, and possibly a long stay in hospital. Not a real fan of the Helmet I adopted the lid. Working towards the lay line for the top mark I was able to get a little above a F18. He was busy gardening and removing weed from his daggers. As we entered more pressure close to the sand bank the F18 pulled ahead. I dipped lower to pick up speed and sacrifice some advantage. The F18 was going to call to tack as we were running out of water depth. (we were both port tack) As I was on the F16 I knew I could run a little closer to the bank. Thus avoiding a possible tack as the lay line is a near thing. The F18 tacked and I dipped lower to run behind, you know, that close thing where you just avoid the stern and the rudders. But the F18 touched bottom and absolutely stopped, I dipped further staring at the stern and boards I drove lower. Out on the wire I skimmed over the stern of the F18. Then smash I collided with the boom. Never saw it coming as I was so intent on avoiding the boat. The boom hit me just at the start of the helmet, just between the eye socket and temple. There was enough force from contact with the boom that the edge of the helmet pushed in and I was bleeding from a gash about 8-10cm long. There's a mark on the side of the helmet and today (the following day) my jaw hurts and I still have a decent egg on the side of my head- people at work literally stop and asked "What happened to you?" The bruising is coming out and it hurts to chew. Without a helmet I would have sustained some serious injuries and may have been knocked out. None of us are great swimmers when we’re unconscious ever. There’s nothing wrong with a helmet. Just sayin'
  2. 2 points
    Can any cat lover be adle to give me information on the kitty cat. Any information would be of great help.
  3. 2 points
    On Sunday morning at the ACT Champs and State Titles, a new Maricat sailor turned up early with his "new" Maricat. A quick chat revealed that Justin had just bought it and did not know much about Maricats. It was rigged rather ..ummm ... unusually. Across the morning the gathered Maricat sailors, rerigged, modified bits, gave advise (some good) and generally made him welcome. We took off the unnessary stuff, like boom vangs, added tell tales, changed the jib rigging, checked rudders. ( I think we all were involved except for Mick who was too busy converting his boat from a recycle centre back into a Maricat.) Justin said he was a bit intimidated by being at a regatta but we convinced him to sail out with the fleet and join in. The wind was a great strength for a learner but to keep clear of the start, be careful when racing boats were mark rounding. On the way to the start, between races and as we sailed past,we all gave tips and suggestions and encouragement . By the end of the morning Justin was going really well, his boat performing better than it ever had, and Justin was building in confidence. We are pretty sure that Justin will return and sail with YMCA with his new enthusiasm. Now the Pont of this story ..... how many times do you hear new sailors say, I'm not good enough to sail at a regatta ! but in this circumstance Justin turned up and got advise on rigging and sailing from the best in the business ..... sailed in a safe, controlled environment with rescue boats to assist if required. Justin sailed the course, cut corners to stay in touch and generally had a good time. So if you have a boat, of any type, get down to your local sailing club and get involved. I'm sure Justin learnt more in the couple of hours spend with the Maricat circus than years of mucking about by himself.
  4. 2 points
    Mick its only a Windrush..You can comfortably tow one with a 20yr old 4cyl Pulsar up Mt Ousley.No need for you to purchase a 4wd or larger engine tow vehicle if that is only towing you going to be doing considering we dont need the V8 power or 4WD grip on a slippery boat ramp as other boaties may need for launching.I wouldnt go buying a petrol guzzler just for the weekly PKSC trip.
  5. 2 points
    The 36th Nacra nationals is to be held at Wangi Wangi on Lake Macquarie. Between the 29th December 2014 to 4th of January 2015. A large fleet is expected in all classes and will feature the first nationals for the Olympic Nacra 17. Lake Macquarie provides flat protected water and plenty to do for the whole family. There are camping spots near the club we recommend you book early as it is the peak summer holiday period. More information is provided on the flyer attached. Hope to see you there.!!
  6. 2 points
    Well the conditions were a little challenging but some awesome close racing at all levels. Thanks Phil for organizing it, Great job! Congrats to Rob Fowler, Darcy Wilson and David Young on their class wins. Mark
  7. 2 points
    I've been informed by the assoc member who is getting our new website up that it is only a few weeks away, it will be structured so as the assoc can update it ourselves, rather than the old model which required a web designer to make any changes to the site, with charges levied to do so. A big vote of thanks to Mick for taking on this project. Phil
  8. 2 points
    FOR SALE: Arrow #1706 'The Snot Rocket'. In excellent condition and ready to race. Kawasaki green in colour. Comes with; 2 jibs (one near new), 1 brand new square top main with centre sheeting euro trax big trolley wheels, excellent road trailer with plenty of room. Located north Brisbane, sailed out of Humpybong YC. Reason for selling is upgrading to a bigger boat out grown this one! $5,500 contact Shane on 0402104888 for pictures etc.
  9. 2 points
    Thanks for that Mark Yes I am now the president, "hooray for me". It was not really something that I wanted (read I did not want it at all), but I accepted as I feel that all members should have a run on the committee to share the load, and so I accepted. If anyone is not happy with how I perform please let me know and I'll be sure to nominate them for President next year. On the subject of yardsticks, let me say that we had an AGM on Sunday morning that was supposed to start at 8am, there was hardly anyone there, so we postponed it to 8.30 am to allow for latecomers, the yardstick item was brought up in general business and it went to a show of hands as to accept it or not, as I recall it was clearly for acceptance by all sailors and owners grp and foam. If members don't turn up to the AGM, how can they have their say. If I didn't vote in the recent Federal election am I entitled now to complain about the outcome seeing as I was not concerned enough about it on ballot day? Mick did put it out to all concerned previously on facebook and here that we would have discussion on possible changes to the class, re trap for juniors in cat, spinnakers, diamond stays on the mast etc, so there was a warning that this kind of stuff would be discussed. Phil
  10. 1 point
    New, diagonal cut, $270. 2nd hand original $100 02 43591729
  11. 1 point
    There are two courses, a windward return and a outer triangle course. There are four or five starts. Generally speaking it is Misc small, H16- H14 F18/F16 Misc Large. 5.8, Hobie 18. There is s solid fleet of 5.8's each year. The 5.8 do a triangle course. The triangle is set highish and not too wide.
  12. 1 point
    I get the same. I think it's likely to be the rails that the tramp is connected to. There's quite a lot of stress with you jumping around. Push a hosepipe into the bung holes and blow, not necessary to be hard and don't use a compressor. Once you have a bit of pressure, spray soapy water along the tramp rails. If there are no bubbles, then spray along the rubbing strip. The hatch covers are also candidates. Once you find out where the water is getting in then you can move to a solution. Cat rigged boats have one sail, sloop have a main and a jib usually sailed by two people and super sloop is main and jib and trapeze sailed by one person.
  13. 1 point
    I have spoken to the president of Toukley re holding our nationals at the Brass Monkey, they do not have a problem with it and have said yes. So yes it will be at the Toukley Brass Monkey Regatta which is held over the June Long weekend. There is planned to be 3 divisions Cat SS and sloop. As to whether we have our own start will be up to the club, and dependng on how many other 14s of different classes turn up to the regatta. Phil
  14. 1 point
    Tony I would suggest next year you call them Mono YS less than or greater than 113 otherwise you might find a foot hole in the side of Tigerdillic if you get my drift. I don't know of a mono site similar to catsailor, you might try emailing individual clubs or associations you may like to invite for next year. Their email and contacts would most likely be available on the YNSW website. Paul
  15. 1 point
    Back on Top MARICAT 4.3 CAT RIG HOW TO Borrowed and modified from the Maricat Association NSW by Richard Eveleigh SET UP Platform Should be rigid with the tendency to twist minimised. 3 things ensure this: Beams have a tight mating fit to the hulls. Rebog with polyester resin and micro balloon filler if necessary. Ensure bolts are tight (but don’t overdo otherwise you will strip the threaded aluminium blocks embedded in the hull). The dolphin striker should be set at a tension that the main beam has a bend 5 to 8mm higher at the mast step than it would otherwise have with no dolphin striker tension. When normal rig loads are applied when sailing (main sheet hard on) the beam will then come to its correct level. (Ensure you check the dolphin striker rod or wire, nuts and associated fittings each season end. It is the most important structural item on the boat and small attention here can save a lot of expense if it breaks at sea) Trampoline – tight is right. It should be as tight as a drum. This contributes enormously to the rigidity of the platform. Leak proof the hulls – vacuum cleaner on blow shoved up to the drain hole, and soapy water Rudder Alignment The following article is by Don Grant ACT Maricat REP ex Association President, PH: (02) 6231 0365. There are many theories floating around on how to make these boats go faster, so here are a few of mine. The idea of the exercise is to achieve an effortless, responsive, fast boat to sail. Rudder Alignment Toe in With the boat on the trailer and the rudders locked down hard in the rudder boxes, line one rudder up with the for stay saddle on the bow. Standing back and sighting it is the most successful way of pointing the rudder in the right direction and hold in that position. Sight the other rudder through to the other bow to check for 25mm of TOE IN measured at the bow. To adjust the rudders either shorten the rudder bar or drill out the rivets in the rudder box and twist the tiller arms until the rudders are aligned with the required TOE IN Re rivet the tiller arms after drilling new holes through the rudder box casting and tiller arm. The rudders work better if they are working slightly against each other. Weather helm Can be decreased by raking the rudders forward under the boat - just how far is a bit of trial and error. To start with, have both rudders locked down tight and sight across the two to see if they have the same rake to begin with. If one rudder is trailing slightly, release the down lock and bump the rudder forward into the rudder box so that it leaves a dark mark from the aluminium casting on the rudder. With a course file or rasp, file off the dark marks and repeat this procedure as long as necessary while locking the rudder down occasionally to compare the rake with the other rudder. When the rudder is adjusted sufficiently forward, lock it down and do the same to the other rudder until it comes forward to line up with the first rudder. I suggest a maximum of 10 mm adjustment at any one time (measured at the leading edge of the bottom of the rudder) then test the boat on the water. The other way is to pack out the top rudder mounting on each stern of the boat but remember that there is a s/s bolt into an aluminium casting and very few of these like to be removed. My (Richard Eveleigh) preference for this rather than filing away at the rudder blade, which can weaken it in a high stress positions, is to relocate the pivot point of the blade and is as follows:Remove rudders from castings and bog up pivot pin hole with Polyester resin and chop strand mat. Fair off flat. Place rudder blades back into castings and G-clamp castings tohold blade in correct position and to stop blades falling outs. With leading edge hard against the casting rotate the blades so that the tip of the leading edge of the blade is about 50mm in front of the line of the pivot pin when sighting down it. Redrill the pivot pin hole. Repeat procedure with other blade ensuring that it is perfectly parallel along the leading edge with the first blade. Get rid of any slop in the rudder system\r\nGet rid of any scratches and dings on rudder blades that can cause cavitation or humming. Alternatives to the rubber knuckle steering system The rubber knuckles which allow the rudder bars to hinge are not only hard to obtain but expensive (around $ 25 each) and seem to only last 1 or 2 seasons. Many sailors use improvised steering systems. Rubber hose works well with a large diameter piece over the rudder bars. Other ideas are reproducing the knuckles with rubber hose the same diameter filled with a rope and putty for strength and rigidity. Metal hinge systems can also be used but make sure that it is adjustable so that the rudders can be set to the right angle (slight toe in). Mast, Rake and Rotation Matching mast to sail Main sails vary in many different ways so what rig configuration works well on one boat is not necessarily suitable for another. They can vary with the quality of the cloth, slight differences in the way they are cut and sewn together, the sailing conditions that they have been through, storage with battens left in tight (bad habit. Always release battens before storing a sail and roll sail to keep battens straight not twisted), bolt rope shrinkage or distortion from general use. To check sail and mast compatibility with the boat rigged and the battens tensioned as you do normally, centre the traveller, pull on your down haul and outhaul as hard as you can. Then tension your main sheet to about the pressure required in 15 knots of breeze. Under this strain the mast should bend to the luff curve of the sail leaving the sail dead flat. If the sail is still full try stiffer battens, extend the bolt rope or more mast rotation allowing the mast to bend sooner to take up the luff curve. If the sail flattens with say a 12 knot effort the mast could be over rotated, or too soft, the battens far too tight. I have destroyed many good battens over the years tapering and softening but now realise the shape is in the sail and the battens should be firm enough to support that shape. The only value in over-rotating a mast is to allow it to bend easier while the effect of the angle into the apparent wind is negligible. Tapered or untapered battens Tapered battens are generally faster but give a narrower groove which – unless you are a very sensitive person – is easy to drop out of. Untapered battens are more forgiving ie easier to keep in the groove but are marginally slower. I was never a sensitive person and found that the untapered battens gave me the tolerance needed to stay ahead of the pack. Mast Rake Mast rake allows you to carry more power higher up the sail and get more stability up wind. While tacking is slightly more difficult, too much mast rake will make it impossible. My mast rake for cat rig is with the tip of the mast 200mm in front of the back beam. Hounds position The hounds position ex factory is good for the average skipper at say around 80kgs’ for lightweight skippers of around 65kgs lower by 100mm (promotes early mast bend). For heavy buggers of around 100kg raise by 100mm Rotation Standard rotation is suited for most, however if you’re a light bugger more rotation can be created by filing back the rotation stops promoting more mast bend. Boom block hanger The factory position is ok but I believe the Maricat responds to mast bend in heavy breezes through flattening the sail through mast bend. This is promoted by generating thrust from the boom through moving the block hanger back on the boom 100mm.\nThis also allows the mast rotation to be locked in when sheeted on hard. A desireable attribute particularly for sloops to counter the derotation forces of the jib. Controls Make it easy and responsive and keep the control lines as short as possible, readily accessible to hand. Down haul should be no less than 6:1 and best finishing to swivel cleats each side of the mast looping round the sidestays and ends tied together. 4 to 5mm soft outer rope. Vang powerful as the rules allow. I used to have a 32:1 lever vang till the rules banned them. Wire and 4 to 5mm soft outer rope 2 part system. Mainsheet 5:1 or 6:1 low profile with enough mainsheet + traveller sheet to allow for heavy weather down wind sailing and absolutely no more. 8mm to 10mm. Heavier mainsheet will reduce the ability to run freely. Rudder pull downs Standard system is ok but the Nacra pulley system to the deck is far superior and allows you to get out through surf breaks. Traveller sheet should be as thin as you can comfortably handle ie 5 to 8mm max. Rigging Cat rig Leave the boat flat on both hulls facing into wind. Lay the mast between the hulls so that about 2 or 3 ft of the mast (at the step end) is beneath the trampoline. Attach the stays to the mast hound and lay the stays out toward the chainplates. Attach the 2 forestays to the respective bow rings. The tensionsing cord should be extended some 200mm+ from the normal sailing position. Attach the 2 sidestays. At this stage, you are ready to lift the mast and step it. But before you do, have a good look at the apparent mess you have before you. The mast and stays are all connected but laying on the ground they can seem pretty messy. Visualise what it will look like in the vertical. Make sure that the stays are not twisted or caught anywhere etc. You really want to avoid anything that forces you to lay the mast down again, or worse, lose control of it. OK, now that everything looks as though it will be in the right place, you are ready to proceed. It is best to have two people in the process. Firstly, you lift the mast to the vertical on the ground, then you lift it from the ground onto the mast step. Here is how you do it. Lift the mast from a point just below the hound. Check again that everything is rigged in the right sense. You lift the mast to the vertical by ''walking'' your way down the mast and at the same time bringing the base out from under the trampoline so that once vertical the mast will be resting on the ground in the centre of the boat and abutting the mast step. Wedging the mast against the dolphin striker provides added leverage that assists the lift. Keeping hold of the mast, stand on the trampoline (beware wet feet or slippery footwear etc) and once again make sure that everything is rigged in the right sense. Hold the mast about 3 - 5 ft from the base and lift it into the mast step. This operation is manageable by one person but until you get some practice, definitely have the second person stand in front of the mast step and assist with the lift. You are now ready to hoist the mainsail, attach the boom and mainsheet blocks and tension the rig. Rig tension Tension the forestays cords to give the desired rig tension which is just off sloppy for moderate hiking conditions. Firm for light conditions where some slop is evident. If the breeze is heavy then tension up the sidestays to give a firm rig tension. De-rigging is the reverse. De-tension the rig, remove the mainsheet blocks, boom and mainsail. Stand on the trampoline and steady the mast while the other person releases one of the side stays (the downhill stay on sloping ground). Lift the mast from the step and place the base on the ground in front of the front beam. Keeping hold of the mast, get down off the boat and move to the front of the mast. Then lower the mast by ''walking '' out toward the hound, again using the dolphin striker to help control the base of the mast. As you lower the mast to the horizontal slide it part way under the trampoline to slacken the sidestays. Check all shackles are tight and circlips and pins secure. Tape up all the critical ones particularly before a championship series. BASICS – on the water How do I right the boat if it goes upside down (turtled)? Get your weight as far aft as possible standing with your foot against the rudder and leaning back and out. The boat will swing around to a sideways position from which you can right it in the normal way. If your mast fills with water the boat will be nearly impossible to right so make sure it is watertight. You could try attaching a float to the top of the mast while you are learning to help prevent your boat inverting once capsized. Good practice is pressure test the mast and replace/ seal all leaking rivets and fittings. How do I tack a cat rigged boat? Ideal roll tack Get lots of speed, flying a hull Look for flat water spot ahead or 2nd choice is tack going up a wave as the bows break through the top. Move smoothly back to the rear beam as you commence and progress the tack. Move the rudder smoothly to 45o Hiking as the windward hull comes down to the water keep on the this hull till the bows have passed through the eye of the wind letting off about a metre of mainsheet as you start to cross. If your responses are good allow the other hull to just lift before crossing. As you come across and change hands with the tiller ensure that the tiller remains at 45o Bear off as you get in position to get boat speed and sheet on coming back onto course. With practice this can be done almost as fast as a dinghy. It is always harder to get a cat rigged boat through a tack so here are some general hints. Get lots of boat speed before attempting the tack. Uncleat the sheet before moving the rudder. Move the rudder to 45o as this should be the optimal steering angle. As you start to turn let out about 300 to 600mm of sheet. At the slightest hint of stalling (ie your roll tack is not working), as soon as the boat loses forward motion reverse the rudders and let out another 600mm of sheet. If you are severely stalled, reverse the boat onto the other tack by reversing the rudder and push the boom out full out. Only pull on the sheet once you are completely on the new tack. Jibing in big breezes If the windward rudder is up – put it down Check sheets and traveller rope for tangles and potential to wrap around things (feet, neck etc). Look for a flat stretch of water ahead or aim to bear off down a wave. Mainsheet should be cleated. Get maximum speed up and smoothly turn into the jibe grabbing the mainsheet and passing it across at the same time swapping hands on the tiller. Do not allow boat to round up – certain recipe for a nosedive. Keep your weight as far back as possible during the manoeuvre. Settle down, clear up the sheets, resume course, flip up windward rudder. Sail settings – cat rig Upwind Light breeze Downhaul just sufficient to take wrinkles out of sail Outhaul 50 to 100mm depth measured at centre of boom Vang – light tension only Mainsheet light tension. In light breezes the wind speed at the top of the mast is significantly higher than at the boom thus your apparent wind at deck level may be 40o but at masthead it is 50o therefore pay close attention to the tell tales on your sail. It is very easy to oversheet and stall the leeward telltales on the upper sail. Make sure you have just enough twist. If I feel I am not moving well I generally ease sheet and gradually sheet back on. Traveller – down about 50mm Position yourself well forward to keep the transoms out of the water but still keep the bows out from burying. Medium breeze Hiking strongly but not overpowered. You will be between the sidestay and rear beam.P Pull on downhaul sufficiently till boat is sailing with the windward hull just above and occasionally kissing the water. For upwind trim, keep the boat as flat as possible, with the windward hull only just in the air. A lot of people in all forms of catamaran sail with their windward hull too far out of the water Outhaul no more than 50mm Vang – Tight Mainsheet hard Traveller down 100 to 200mm. Your traveller is your key power control. The boat becomes a lot freer as you drop traveller and does not kick up and down in the gusts but accelerates. However dropping traveller looses in pointing so experiment and play it in the gusts. Point only when necessary, footing off for speed frequently looses little in height but gets you there fast – and that is the objective. Heavy breeze you are overpowered Hiking from a position getting close to the rear beam to keep the bows from burying, Pull on downhaul till you feel your fingers about to break and give it another 50mm Outhaul hard on Vang – Tight Mainsheet hard on – very – note that when you release the mainsheet in a gust it allows the mast to straighten and therefore the sail gets fuller and gives you more power just when you don’t want it. So use the traveller in gusts and the mainsheet as a last resort. Traveller down to foot strap maybe even more if it is really strong. Depends on your weight and wind strength. You let it out to a point where you are hiking hard, going fast and not flicking up and down and being blown sideways. Rotation. When it is really honking allowing the mast to derotate causes the whole top of the sail to fall away and depower the rig big time. Looks horrible but mast have rarely broken. If you do this bring the traveller back to about 100mm or you will lose too much height.
  16. 1 point
    Hi again, little addition to my previous post...had 2 races at Gosford earlier today, it was the windiest we had been out in, probably 15-18 knots. beat both Fireballs comfortably, (by several minutes in both ~40 min races). 7 year old crew getting braver! Geez it was good fun, great days sailing.. so i think the Weta definitely faster as it gets windier, but on a light day, long square runs are its weak point. For me, its the best boat I have ever sailed, from a versatility point of view: take a small kid or 3 out, or go for a blast single handed.. My dad (58yrs) ordered one today! Hope he is not quicker than me!!!
  17. 1 point
    Anyone have a decent second hand pintop or better still square top for sale?
  18. 1 point
    Hey Tony, Some input from the Texas Weta Fleet: We've found that we are a better "fit" sailing in mixed portsmouth centerboard rather that mixed multihulls. That is until we get enough boats one the line for one design starts (5-6+). It took a season to get the different clubs we race at to get past the "you're a multihull, you sail with the cats" attitude, but 2 years later it's now just normal for us Weta sailors to be in with the portsmouth centerboard fleet and have never regretted it. Having sailed both catamarans and centerboards, the Weta sail and "feels" more like a board boat. Here locally there are many more centerboard regattas than cat regattas which also gives us more racing action. For me personally, I would rather sail with more boats, rather than a few cats at irregular intervals. I looked at your Division 2 fleet and I believe the Weta would fit right in as long as everyone can get past the "it's a multihull". Remember, more boats, more fun! As far as the 78.5 that we use here, I have a few times corrected out first in 18+kt wind in the centerboard fleet. In light winds, forget it, we still get 78.5, as other boats like the Contender and 505 get a wind rating. Good Luck!
  19. 1 point
    If you run it, we would all be interested, you would be classed as F14( which is currently hard done by on Koonawarra Y/S) but KCCs Y/S (Much more favourable to F14) will probably be used in future.
  20. 1 point
    Custard Truck - Mk1. Hulls, beams, rudders, tillers + long extension, tramp, blocks, ropes, stays, boom = 88.4kg Sails, main with battens + jib = 5.7kg Mast = 9.9kg That puts it at exactly 9kg overweight. For a boat built in the early 80s using choppy gun technology, I'm happy with that. With a bit of gelcoat sanding and some rope tapering, a carbon tiller extension, taking out the eskies, replacing the rubber bumpers with silicon ones, foam cored rudders, carbon sail battens, removing stay adjusters, filling bung holes, etc - I can get a couple of kilos out of it yet. Or, I can just lose some weight. I can afford to lose 9kg (at least!). I'll put the scales in the gear with me for this weekend if anyone wants to find out how big their handicap is. And, no, I won't measure the stiffness of your platform, even if it is the most important part of the whole equation!
  21. 1 point
    Jimbo, The silent majority are always silent. But the have ways of using their loud voice in other ways. Like if they all turn up at an event and don't like the conditions, They don't return. I can remember seeing a sign in the head office of a well known pizza franchise. "People never complain, They just never return" So you can paint it which ever way you want, Be as loud or as silent as you like, But it still comes down to if the class suffers. We all suffer. Richard
  22. 1 point
    Wow - talk about running off with the fairies! Put it in perspective guys. I own a 1986 model laser. It has zero resale. It is old, soft, faded, and could never conceivably compete with a new Laser. Wouldn't even be on the lead lap against any decent sailor. It can never be restored or fixed to become competitive, and its next home is the tip. Poor investment. I own a 1980 (or even older!) model Mk1 Maricat. Paid a case of beer. It was old, faded, overweight, had crap sails, badly tuned rudders, leaked like a sieve and couldn't be on the lead lap against any decent sailor. The bottom is now polished to an inch of its life, tuned up in every area, is watertight, 102kg fully rigged, new sails and all new fitout. I've probably spent 50-60hrs of labour in bringing it back to life. A bit of hard work, and it placed 2nd in the States against a better sailed $10K foamie and the boat has a decent resale value. My kids love it, and I'm happy with that investment. Now convince me why I should expect to be able to beat a newer boat with one built by far inferior methods and materials 30+ years ago?!! I also sail in quite a few other classes, and am under no expectation that a $2000 MG can be even remotely close to the $10K+ ones at the front of the fleet. My foiling moth, while a barrel load of fun and competitive in my little world, will never win a Worlds, but then I also didn't pay $24K to be state of the art. Compare one-design cats? Find me a Hobie 16 that is 30yo and can still be at the front. Given a real world perspective of expectations for old boats, and I can be 100% certain that the fibreglass Maricats will give you better bang-for-buck than any other class. 27 boats for the States is a sign of life that many classes can only dream of. If one or two leave the class because they can't see the forest for the trees, then so be it - if they were looking at other classes then they were likely to leave anyway. How many other cat classes are still able to attract those numbers in Australia? Maricat owners and potential owners need to keep a real life view of what they expect. Spend little, prepare little - you won't be at the front. Prepare lots, practice lots - you will be at the front of COMPARABLE boats. Every equipment based sport in the world is the same. Why else would we have $5K Optimists, $10K carbon pushbikes, $500 putters... Yardstick racing is a crapshoot at best and meant as an equaliser between classes - handicap racing is the only fair way within a class. (You can guarantee someone else could borrow Mick's foamie and not win.) A strong class association which has a strong committee at its centre is the best way to achieve accurate and representative handicaps. Put your hand up and volunteer if you feel so strongly about it. Darcy - I officially nominate you for Secretary. You have the skills, experience and know-how to be an asset to the Association and provide direction and organisation skills to help the class become what it deserves. I'm sure there will be more than one person who will be a seconder.
  23. 1 point
    Well Tony, If windys are such a heavy recreation sailing boat, how come I would give you a pretty close run for your money at Wallagoot on a Saturday afternoon???? Paul
  24. 1 point
    Over the new year holidays I attended and raced in the Stingray/Cobra/Arrow National titles at Loch Sport on the Gippsland lakes. Fun event, good winds and a fantastic atmosphere with great people and support all round. My cat "Its Magic" performed very well (unlike the skipper...)......Unfortunately though, on my way home on Saturday things went wrong in a very big way......a car travelling in the opposite direction crossed double white lines going around a bend into my path, but at highway speed, I could only do so much...... The photos tell the story........some how I actually walked away unscathed.........and my wife and kids were not in the car with me. Lucky!! As yet I have not fully assessed the damage to my boat, the front beam is gone, and it punched a nice hole in the side of the hull....im sure I will find more out when I get my boat and trailer back. Be careful out there everyone.....
  25. 1 point
    REALITY CHECK #1 #527 Nacra 5.8 Oldest boat in the Nationals and BY FAR THE WORST EXAMPLE OF A 5.8 YOU WILL EVER SEE Came 4th. This Boat Had: The worst Sails The Worst Hulls The Worst Beams The Worst Mast The Worst Repairs Broken rear beam BUT It had a sailor on board that knew how to sail and even though he did not trapeze during the event they STILL came 4th. Its time for 5.8 sailors to stop blaming weight/boat sail numbers for poor results and just get out on the water and attend regattas. REALITY CHECK #2 When the boats left the factory they have all weighed within 12Kg of each other. All boats have repairs/absorb water/gear added to them and this affects weights. As a F18 sailor I know that a brand new wet F18 weighs more than 5kg more than a dry brand new one. REALITY CHECK #3 A Good Sailor on an old boat will beat a poor sailor on a new boat. Join the Association, sail at Nacra events and look after your boat and you will be at the front of the fleet regardless what boat number you have [This message has been edited by catsailor.net (edited 08 January 2007).]
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