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TornadoSport260

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TornadoSport260 last won the day on February 16 2015

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About TornadoSport260

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core_pfieldgroups_99

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    Sydney
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    ... need I answer this?
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  1. TornadoSport260

    Stingray Crash photos

    Geez! Lucky to walk away from that mate.
  2. I'll firstly state that I've not sailed the Square top. IMO the Square should be faster in light-moderate as you have more sail area up high. This may not show to be the case so early in the use as people haven't worked out the correct trim. I believe over sheeting will cause the head to lay off which would be detrimental in light-moderate breeze. It should also be faster in heavy breeze as the head will lay off sooner which reduces the healing moment of the boat. BUT if you're not a top flight sailor then the difference will be minimal and certainly spending more time on the water to practice will have a bigger impact on how fast you get around a course (Rob Thompson is still able to beat most with a dacron cut to the pre mylar shape which is slower than the pin head mylar as its how he sails the boat that makes him fast not just his gear). Michael
  3. TornadoSport260

    Windrush 14 rigging

    Well you learn something new! Why did NZ get an I beam traveller? A proper traveller would have been awesome on the Aus boats. When it's 25knts and you cant dump traveller it sucks. As for mainsheet block sizes 60mm would be ok. The common bottom block is either a Ronstan or Harken 57mm triple with cleat and a 40mm triple top block either Ronstan or Harken. I preferred 40mm Harken Carbo triples for bottom and top, but you need to use 6mm rope which after a nationals ends up killing your hands.
  4. TornadoSport260

    Windrush 14 rigging

    The traveller options you've seen in the marine shop are not a true cost of what it will endup costing to change to an I track style traveller. If you went down that path, you'd need a new traveller + the track. The track can be $$$ + you'll be weakening the back beam by attaching the track too it. Best option is to get in contact with Brett at Windrush Yachts. You'll still have issues with it sticking under load but unless its a raceboat i'd say its not an issue. Michael
  5. TornadoSport260

    Nose diving

    Darcy, I'm staying out of the foam bulkhead repairs as I've never done it. Dad's done it once or twice and I do remember you have to use Epoxy not Polyester resin as Polyester resin will dissolve the styrene blocks. From memory he used a rectangular hole just under the gunwale to get in, but i've also heard of people using a hole in the bottom of the hull along the U shaped section. For the middle section you'll likely have to remove all the rotted marine ply too. Michael
  6. TornadoSport260

    Nose diving

    Marz, Windrush are the most forgiving of the older 14ft cat designs (i've not sailed a Nacra 430 or an AO F14 so cant pass judgement there). A few tricks for reaching in big breeze: 1) Crew weight as far aft as possible, i mean the skipper hiking with their bum behind the rear beam and under the rudder arm. It's not easy to get there or back but it's the safest way to get aft. The unsafe way for most is to trapeze that far back, though it is highly risky and its generally not pretty when you do send it down the mine, it typically ends in a flying trip forward of the boat or landing on the mast, beam etc. 2) As the leeward hulls nose almost submerges, release main sheet. This outgasses the head of the main and depowers the boat. Other settings that help are: a) increasing the downhaul and increasing the outhaul (this depowers the mainsail quite a bit as it flattens the sail shape, thus reducing power) b) let some traveller out, generally to the leeward footstrap or further in really big breeze, this reduces the sails angle of attack and essentially flattens the sail relative to the wind direction (think of the sail as an aircraft wing, at take off they increase the shape of the wing by angling the forward and aft wing flaps to provide life [power], while at cruising speed they flatten the wing by retracting the wing flaps which decreases the lift [power]) 3) As KO mentioned steering has a LOT to do with avoiding a pitchpole, as the bow drops, point into the wind a few degrees and you'll find the boat pops up. If you bear away you're likely to causing it to dive further. NOTE: this steering technique works for reaching, i use something different going upwind but that's a whole other conversation. 4) If it does nosedive, let all of the sails off immediately and focus on not sliding forward, often you can recover a dive with good reflexes and staying put. I've personally had Windrush 14's buried so the hull platform is underwater to the sidestays and the rest of the boat covered in whitewater and still recovered it without a capsize. 5) Practise, all of the above is only learnt from time on the water and having the odd capsize along the way. A coach once said if you go training and don't capsize, you're not pushing hard enough. With those words in mind i've previously broken 3 tiller extensions in one 4hr training session (i was learning to sail a Hobie 16 with spinnaker in 30knts...) Cheers Michael
  7. TornadoSport260

    What type of trapeze line/wire?

    2mm or 2.5mm Dyneema is what you want. It's the stuff the top A guys use. The 2.5mm with spliced ends has a breaking stain close to 800kg with
  8. TornadoSport260

    14' Traveller series for 2011-2012

    All sounds good in theory but remember that the Maricats are the only association with insurance and if you run a try sailing day outside of an affiliated & insured club you are the organising authority and all the liability lies with the associations. This was the hurdle it all fell down on last time this was suggested.
  9. TornadoSport260

    What type of mainsheet?

    What you'll find about Magic Pro is that the Dyneema core will give you basically NO stretch underload, so everybit of energy you put in is directly applied.
  10. TornadoSport260

    What type of mainsheet?

    I ran the Magic Pro in 6mm for 2 seasons with a 6:1 Harken 40mm triple top and 40mm triple rachet bottom on the Windrush and I couldn't find anything about the line i didn't like. It had unnoticable stretch ran through the blokes better than anything i've had before and i've used FSE lines before. I also have a 10m or 12m length of Dyna Grip, I've not used it because the Magic Pro was such a good rope. My partner races NS14's (3rd at the 2011/12 nationals) and her skipper uses Dyna Grip for a mainsheet. It's quite soft and gives good control based on his reports.
  11. TornadoSport260

    What type of mainsheet?

    Liros Magic Pro (aka Lightning Line) from Deckhardware.com.au. The other way is Liros Dyna Grip also from Deckhardware.com.au Magic Pro http://www.deckhardware.com.au/-categories/rope_cordage/liros_dinghy_rope/liros_magic_pro_01507/ Dyna Grip http://www.deckhardware.com.au/-categories/rope_cordage/liros_dinghy_rope/liros_dynagrip_02009/
  12. TornadoSport260

    Windward returns vs triangles

    I agree that if your class does W/L's then doing them at club level would be good. But if your in a non spi boat they are boring...
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