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Pointed Reply

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Everything posted by Pointed Reply

  1. Pointed Reply

    Sail age

    The sail number, assuming it is the original sail for the boat, indicates a Mark 1 boat and likely to be about 1980. If the boat has been well looked after then the boat could be fine. But sails do wear out. Good second hand sails are hard to find. Where are you located ?
  2. Pointed Reply

    Righting System - Setup

    Can’t find the pictures .. must have deleted them .. but will keep looking .. recharge an old phone ..
  3. Pointed Reply

    Righting System - Setup

    your new tramp should have a pocket just behind the mast, put the righting rope in that. The old design centre lacing tramps are rubbish and can’t be tightened properly the newer diagonal cut tramps are the go. make sure you pull the tramp tight - very tight - it helps stiffen the boat. Darcy at Lake Macquarie can help you with second hand parts for your Maricat and Mick at Lemon Tree Passage Marine is the NSW agent for new Maricat parts. Both Darcy and Mick are also dedicated Maricat sailors.
  4. Pointed Reply

    Righting System - Setup

    Found the topic righting line setup Sept 10 2012 ..... but it looks like the photos are not still stored ... I will attach again.
  5. Pointed Reply

    Righting System - Setup

    There are some photos on the forum somewhere but I can’t find/remember the topic. I have the photos (on an old phone) and will post them tomorrow but ....... many have done away with that complicated system. I’m assuming 1666 is a Mark 1 with the tramp with the centre lacing. Get a rope about 4/5 metres long, tie one end to the dolphin striker, and stow the other end in the centre lacing pocket. After a capsize pull out the rope and throw it over the upper hull and right the boat. With the rope going over the top hull it will create a much greater lever action than the under tramp system. Rope should be 10 mm thick and put a series of knots along the rope to assist with grip.
  6. Pointed Reply

    Cartwheeling (nose diving)

    Is your sheeting position for the jib right. You should have about equal tension on leach and foot. if the leach is light and the foot loose you will have a baggy sail. Rule of thumb is to measure one third up the sail. Draw an imaginary line from there through the leach/foot corner to the deck. That is about where the sheeting position should be. jib bridle should be 1100, with just small shackles, rack your mast as much as the sail cut will allow, ( the old multicoloured sails don’t allow much),
  7. Pointed Reply

    Cartwheeling (nose diving)

    You should make the effort to attend one of the regattas where the NSW Maricat guys will be. That way you can see what they are doing. The next best chance, without huge amounts of travel for you, will be the next NSW/ACT State Titles to be held in Canberra in October or early November.
  8. Pointed Reply

    Foam Mari, $4k neg

    No you don’t ...... You need a decent Mk2 with a reasonable sail.
  9. Pointed Reply

    Mast height - Which one ?

    Call Darcy ...... The fountain of knowledge.
  10. Pointed Reply

    Finding parts

    I think you have been sold a “pup” by someone who doesn’t know or sail a Maricat. The new proper ones are single piece, cut on the diagonal so they fit and can be tensioned to drum tight with no gaps in the middle or the stern for things like ropes to fall through. This tramp looks very complicated and untidy and will cause problems. There are a number of experienced Maricat sailmakers and trampoline people who can make you a better one that will work for about the same price.
  11. Pointed Reply

    Newbie Mark 1 on Central Coast after advice

    Darcy lives at Mannering Park and knows all things about old Maricats. 0243591729 Quite a few Maricats sail out of the Mannering Park Sailing club. Toukley Sailing club also sails cats including Maricats. CWSC is a sailing club - not sure from where. 1296 is the sail number which indicates a fairly old Mk 1. Age of the boat does not necessarily indicate the condition. Ring Darcy he can help with advise and has a stock of second hand parts.
  12. Pointed Reply

    Mk1 and Mk2 renovations

    I’m not sure you will be sailing at Lake Albert for a while ......... I live nearby and occasionally sail at Wagga. Give me a call for a chat 0428503126
  13. Pointed Reply

    Another newbie with a Mari in NZ

    Halyard must be cleated at the top with swag on the mast Your boat will not work if the sail in not cleated at the top. sail shape, mast bend, sheet tension, down haul will all be wrong
  14. Pointed Reply

    Another newbie with a Mari in NZ

    About 260-270mm
  15. Pointed Reply

    Main sail size

    Current cat rigged national champion is a 35 year old boat with a new sail —- and a good sailor ......
  16. Pointed Reply

    Another newbie with a Mari in NZ

    The swivel blocks are for the downhaul they are Ronstan RF5, they allow te downhaul to be adjusted on the run from both sides. Also you don’t need a vang ....... That bolt as a mast base looks scary —- it will just rip the mast step to pieces and prevent rotation.
  17. Pointed Reply

    Main sail size

    The sail maketh the boat.
  18. Pointed Reply

    Main sail size

    That is the sail drawing that is in the class association rules. How it is applied will depend on each sail maker. Most new sails are cut to allow “more” mast rake than the original multicolour sails. The stay length that are now used are mentioned in earlier topics. The old 40 year old design sails supplied by Maricat tended to be more right angle triangles, but the newer cut sails have more shape but staying within the class rules. Now sails can be made by any sailmaker using these measurements. The jib drawing are available if you need.
  19. Pointed Reply

    Main sail size

    Main sail drawing
  20. Pointed Reply

    Finding parts

    http://www.midcoastsails.com.au/
  21. Pointed Reply

    Pointing up wind

    Sheet tension to keep the leech more or less straight. If you have an older style sail then you can’t use too much rake or you won’t get sufficient tension on the main sail. Don’t use too much mainshert tension especially in lighter wind or you will hook the top of the main over. if you attach a picture of your boat with the sails up, then you will get better advise. where are you located - if you are still sailing then it must be somewhere warm !!
  22. Pointed Reply

    Pointing up wind

    What was the wind strength? Where did you have the traveller - how far from centre ?
  23. Pointed Reply

    Tramp tension

    Always good to have a second opinion ..... First is your new tramp cut on the diagonal ? If so you can pull it as tight as possible. The tramps on Mark II boats are easier to tighten than the older Mark I boats. The older original tramps were the straight cut with the lacing up the middle - they are basically impossible to get really tight. I think that the caravan track modification are not the best solution. Irrespective of which way you put them on they create a lump. One of the great features of a Maricat is the smooth transition from deck to tramp. I think it is best to retain the existing flat plate. Drill out the old rivets, take off the aluminium strip, clean up the holes, maybe dribble some resin in the holes, if the inner lip is very worn you may need to apply a thin layer of resin on the lip to close down the slot between inner lip and aluminium strip. Sand it smooth. Use long rivets to reattach the aluminium strip with some sealant on each hole. Refit the tramp.
  24. Pointed Reply

    Cartwheeling (nose diving)

    Check that your dolphin striker is tight before stepping the mast. Maricats nose dive if driven hard on a reach - that is just how it is. You can reduce it by racking the mast and de powering by flattening the sail. In strong wind you drive the boat as hard as you are game hopefully holding it just off the nosedive then ease off or dump the main, if you bury it sometimes it will recover other times it won’t !! Drop the traveller down. On a reach you can sit behind the back beam this greatly increases the leverage to keep the nose up. Can’t tell from the video but you don’t use forestays to the bows with a jib, the weight needs to be on the forestay in the jib.
  25. Pointed Reply

    New Sails $$

    Another option is Mid Coast Sails based in Laurieton NSW. Rohan Nosworthly can make you a radial or a flat cut panel sail. Rohan used a freshly made horizontal cut main and jib at the Maricat Nationals last week end and it looked nice. He will give you the price but it would be quite a lot less than the going price for a radial cut sail.
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