Jump to content

Ozzydamo

Members
  • Content count

    60
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Ozzydamo


  1. On 8/24/2020 at 7:44 AM, darcy1945 said:

    We're talking about getting a $400 boat back on the water in an economical way, spending $400 on 1 new rudder doesn't cut it. 

    Hi Darcy,

    Who said it would cost any more $$$ then what you suggested doing?

    Same tools required and materials. 

    They sell fabric by the meter and resin by the gallon-  one layer of fabric each side isn't going to stop it failing. Do it right or you just waste more time and money overall- otherwise sail till it breaks then dump it. A new blade is $350, for someone not setup for fiberglass work, materials, tools and skills- I reckon its pretty cheap, certainly better then drowning.  Box of beers is fast approaching $100, trying to keep up with land values.  ;)

    Regards,

    Damon


  2. 18 minutes ago, darcy1945 said:

    There is usually enough room in the casting to just glass over eacc side of the blade, rough up the area to be glassed with 180 grade, and glass at least 50mm below cracks.

     

    Hi Darcy, such a repair as you suggest I would consider cosmetic- I have 2 issues to highlight here.

    Firstly the cracking in the gelcoat surface is due to fatigue in the matting layers underneath, if they aren't renewed your blade won't be as rigid as required and will give sub-optimal performance in its performance, function and durability.

    Secondly the casting that holds bracket will suffer wear at an accelerated rate, flaring it into taper, this leads to other patch up fixes like graphite shim washers.  Fixed correctly eliminates these issues, when gelcoating over the rudder blade repair apply Graphite Granules to embed into the surface of the rudder blade, which will reduce friction and wear to the casting- the loss in spring tension due to age is also rectified as less force is required to perform the kick back function.

    Using a tooling gelcoat will have benefits for the roller surface edge, this can be encrusted with graphite powder also to reduce friction.


  3. On 3/21/2017 at 6:16 PM, JohnTSV said:

    added pic

    rudder 01.JPG

    rudder 02x.JPG

    I really can't see the problem that you had to use a shackle, take the rope off the joint and hold it perpendicular to put it on- then pull it out, remove your scrapper and align the cord then drop it back in- simple as, put a little 316 self tapper screw on the underside to stop it pulling thru. I'd replace the cord while its all apart, easy to do. Spray the spring, a light mist of inox- then it will never rust out ;)


  4. On 3/24/2017 at 11:14 AM, Prince Planet said:

    The small shackle through the flexible tiller joint is an excellent modification... nice work...
    :)

    You don't need it, I would guess they have put the spring in back to front, the hook has enough room to slip on- but it has to be removed from the xbar to do it.


  5. On 1/8/2012 at 2:09 PM, druggsrus said:

    It is possible it may be a corroded spring, or also likely the internal spring, similar to that on a kids trampoline, hooks onto a rubber end cap, it has more than likely pulled through that, the other end of the spring is connected to a small bolt goes through rudder arm, you will have to pull one end of the spring out using some thin rope and then push a screwdriver through the spring to keep it out, jamming it across the opening of the tube it is in, then you can replace the rubber connector. The spring is quite strong.

    the spring hooks up to the wire loop at the rudder end, at lest in the one I took a part today.


  6. You will need to grind it back and lay some fiber(triaxial would be wise) onto it, fair it back, then gelcoat over it- at the cost of new ones I would suggest buy new ones unless you like to work. You will do it for around 1/2 the price but you need tools, so really just buy new ones. The older rudders are heavy crap, the core is placed pretty random by the looks of the one I cut up- its not in center that's for sure.

     

     


  7. On 7/11/2020 at 9:26 AM, Frank Vowles said:

    Hi Guys

    I'm wondering if I could take on a restoration of a Windrush 14, not knowing very much overall about these famous boats, or sailboats in general ..
    .. this would be a project with my 13 year old son, we are on the Central Coast in NSW between Sydney and Newcastle.

    I'm wondering if I could get like an old style parts manual ( likely on line of course ) so I can identify what's missing and then go tracking things down.

    Cost of the project might be an issue but perhaps there are second hand bits available?

    Hulls look sound enough but we'll need all rigging, tillers, sails etc..so is this a viable project please.. your advice appreciated thanks..

    Frank Vowles
    0425 229 089

    It isn't viable from an economic perspective- you are better off buying a new one money wise. If you want to help your son develop some skills in fiberglass and get an interest in boat building, I think its a great idea- many levels and layers to it, you could tart one up to make it work well enough for sailing a lake safely or you could try to make it as new- to learn professional level skills for building up to bigger and maybe better things. The trouble will be how it long it takes and if the young bloke will stay interested, kids like to throw spears before learning to make them.  I would say a catamaran isn't the easiest boat to fix up, a mono is a lot simpler and quicker to work on- it maybe better to sail a new windy14' while doing up a easier boat to work on- like a dingy sailor, will be less materials and less work to get a workable result. The trick to youngen's is keeping them focused, idiot distractions are everywhere these days.

     


  8. Fairing it all out is probably the most skilled job of the whole effort, the cc aren't very well molded to start with- has divots along the sides of the hull- so if you want it to look straight/sharp either use a 750mm hand longboard or if you use a belt sander if you are good at using it! Pity rupes doesn't still make the extra long based orby they use to- it would be perfect for finishing off the fairing surface.

    Vinylester resin has 72hr chemical bond window, layers x-link- the earlier the stronger the bond.

    Making fairing compound is much cheaper using the bulk resin, fumed silica 1part and q-cells 3parts. Old school.


  9. 22 hours ago, Leon said:

    Mark,, The Calypso 4.4 good little boat. no structural problem that  I have herd off. Can get parts from Lr sails Brisbane.   Bow bit short so can nose dive a bit.   Sail plan out dated for now days but you can do what ever you like now.   Rudders are push down system that lock in with a rope to hold them tight. Mast quite easy to lift no spreaders. come to the Lake weekend might be one in the boat yard for you to see.   Remember you got to move it around your self and rig it by your self to.   

    The caper cat was a better boat- especially for surf/bar crossings, but that was a different boat builder/designer- not the owner of calypso rc, there is a hard point issue where resin pooled on the inside bottom of the hull when molded-no peel ply used- but they were built on contract by many different people so some where good some not so good. lr sails doesn't have all the parts required to rebuild one to full safe spec. Manders sails Greg Ellis has beaten LR sails on price for many of the soft components required to do a rebuild, I play fair, I get prices from all contenders- alloy sections from Karl Mueller at Keeley Marine was the only supplier with the small boom front x-member, side tramp frame extrusions- none of it is cheap, to restore an old boat will cost you more then you think, be close to $5k without sails/jib and mast/boom. a new windrush is like $15k? https://www.windrushyachts.com.au/sailing-boats/windrush-14

    Is half price to do one up over buying a newie, but you need to have some trade skills, not be just an electrician with a can do attitude!

     

    For me it is for mementos for my son, if looks after things I made for him with my hands, he will be able to past them down to his son.  Like a hand print on a rock.

     


  10. the windrush 14 is probably a better choice as it is still in production with all parts available from the manufacturer - they even got made in the USA under licence- is faster boat too

    https://www.windrushyachts.com.au/sailing-boats/windrush-14

    this looks good for a lowball effort if your looking for cheap- maricat 14 offer him $500 bet he will accept https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-view-details.html?adId=1238022294

     

    I am restoring a caper cat 14 because of the rocker in the hull, makes it a great first boat for my son

     

    No boat is faultless, yet! 😜

×