knobblyoldjimbo

Here you go, looks a bit convoluted here but basically you fill a bag with water and lean out on the righting line. I think righting took less time using my own body weight!

Ask Darcy, he'll have one. Recently I sailed one of his Mari's with a Mid North Coast radial sail, very nice it was. James

On one of my Maricats there wasn't a bag so I used one from Whitworths, doesn't need to be a large one, I think mine was small. You can tie it to the dolphin striker fitting if you don't want holes. That holds the righting rope. You definitely need one although in about ten years of 'catting I've only capsized about three times (I know, not trying hard enough!). One of the Paper Tiger guys had a small rope ladder tucked into a pocket that had a zip flap! He had a heart condition so couldn't easily get back on board. There are all sorts of bright ideas about righting poles etc but on a mari you really don't need one. When righting it is essential that the main is uncleated and if you have a vang uncleat that as well or you won't get it up.

You have good adjustment in the mainsheet, pull in hard and tight uphill and the forestays will tighten, let off and it loosens. Bit like a backstay adjustment on lead mines.

I did this with quite a recent sail. I put a short length of bolt rope (the white stuff, Bunnings will probably be ok) into the bottom just to make sure the sail isn't pulled out by the outhaul.

From a Maricat sailer so observations only. 1. Rudders need to be as far down as possible. On the Maris we have them tucked under a bit. This results in a nice light touch. Going upwind just a little weather helm provides a positive pressure so that if you let go the boat rounds up into the wind. 2. That Becket you mention looks to be a vang. In the Maris nobody uses them any more. I tried for a while and it does provide a small speed improvement dead downwind. Big hassle if there are two people though. It also causes problems if you capsize as it prevents the leech, back of the sail from letting the water out as you right. 3. Cat rigged, or just the mainsail we use two forestays one per hull. This reduces the squeezing of the bows which sometimes causes cracking. We also take the mast more which also helps weather helm by moving the centre of effort back closer to the rudders. I used to fight for last place with an older guy in a windy, his style of coming into shore was full speed and see how far up the beach he got - don't think he liked getting his feet wet! Enjoy.

Most recent sails, ie built in the last ten years are all good. The Eastwind sail I use must be about 10 years old and it still works like a new one, although it has only been lightly used. Mine is cross cut, the fancy ones are radial cut but there's no real difference. At manno, one of the guys has a sail that must be 15 or 20 years old and it still sets beautifully. It is cross cut and was made for one of the gun sailors.

If your mk1 traveller has only four rollers it could be upgraded to a six roller one, least I think it's six. That makes a big difference. Some have replaced the traveller cleat with a Spinlock which again makes operation faster. Like all boats there's plenty to get and try.

Mast base Try this. Most cut the base so it points to the shrouds. The tag on the mast end needs to be trimmed so the pointy bit sits in the hole. Mine is black because I had a can!

When you take the tramp off my cat, just behind the front beam there is a patch, very tough and would probably have been made in order to effect a repair. I saw one of the gun windy sailors who had done the same except you couldn't see the repair at all. If you cut a hole in the hull bear the top you could repair your soft spot and put the patch back quite effectively.

Also you have to grind the mast step when you take the mast. Just the rear and possibly a bit of the mast base.

Just coated, doesn't matter what colour, at least 8 don't see anyone complaining. Don't forget the dolphin striker.

They use a zipper luff I think.

Here's an example, or three!