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knobblyoldjimbo

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knobblyoldjimbo last won the day on February 15

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About knobblyoldjimbo

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  1. knobblyoldjimbo

    Cartwheeling (nose diving)

    You have good adjustment in the mainsheet, pull in hard and tight uphill and the forestays will tighten, let off and it loosens. Bit like a backstay adjustment on lead mines.
  2. knobblyoldjimbo

    Halyard pulleys and sail track lubrication

    I did this with quite a recent sail. I put a short length of bolt rope (the white stuff, Bunnings will probably be ok) into the bottom just to make sure the sail isn't pulled out by the outhaul.
  3. knobblyoldjimbo

    Windrush 14

    From a Maricat sailer so observations only. 1. Rudders need to be as far down as possible. On the Maris we have them tucked under a bit. This results in a nice light touch. Going upwind just a little weather helm provides a positive pressure so that if you let go the boat rounds up into the wind. 2. That Becket you mention looks to be a vang. In the Maris nobody uses them any more. I tried for a while and it does provide a small speed improvement dead downwind. Big hassle if there are two people though. It also causes problems if you capsize as it prevents the leech, back of the sail from letting the water out as you right. 3. Cat rigged, or just the mainsail we use two forestays one per hull. This reduces the squeezing of the bows which sometimes causes cracking. We also take the mast more which also helps weather helm by moving the centre of effort back closer to the rudders. I used to fight for last place with an older guy in a windy, his style of coming into shore was full speed and see how far up the beach he got - don't think he liked getting his feet wet! Enjoy.
  4. knobblyoldjimbo

    Foam Mari, $4k neg

    Most recent sails, ie built in the last ten years are all good. The Eastwind sail I use must be about 10 years old and it still works like a new one, although it has only been lightly used. Mine is cross cut, the fancy ones are radial cut but there's no real difference. At manno, one of the guys has a sail that must be 15 or 20 years old and it still sets beautifully. It is cross cut and was made for one of the gun sailors.
  5. knobblyoldjimbo

    Foam Mari, $4k neg

    If your mk1 traveller has only four rollers it could be upgraded to a six roller one, least I think it's six. That makes a big difference. Some have replaced the traveller cleat with a Spinlock which again makes operation faster. Like all boats there's plenty to get and try.
  6. Mast base Try this. Most cut the base so it points to the shrouds. The tag on the mast end needs to be trimmed so the pointy bit sits in the hole. Mine is black because I had a can!
  7. When you take the tramp off my cat, just behind the front beam there is a patch, very tough and would probably have been made in order to effect a repair. I saw one of the gun windy sailors who had done the same except you couldn't see the repair at all. If you cut a hole in the hull bear the top you could repair your soft spot and put the patch back quite effectively.
  8. knobblyoldjimbo

    Mk1 and Mk2 renovations

    Also you have to grind the mast step when you take the mast. Just the rear and possibly a bit of the mast base.
  9. knobblyoldjimbo

    Mk1 and Mk2 renovations

    Just coated, doesn't matter what colour, at least 8 don't see anyone complaining. Don't forget the dolphin striker.
  10. knobblyoldjimbo

    Cat rig / sloop rig.

    They use a zipper luff I think.
  11. knobblyoldjimbo

    seeking detailed maricat diagram

    Here's an example, or three!
  12. knobblyoldjimbo

    seeking detailed maricat diagram

    There are a lot of wrinkles in the luff so I'd pull the mainsheet in hard then pull the downhaul hard too. The main isn't right up to the top which either means it's shrunk or that someone has cut it down.
  13. knobblyoldjimbo

    seeking detailed maricat diagram

    Comments 1. Toss the vang, the only thing it does is prevent you righting after a capsize. 2. The tack of the sail (bottom) shackles onto the boom. The downhaul then attached to the boom. You therefore pull the boom down to tension the luff of the sail. 3. The clew shackles to the slider on the boom.
  14. knobblyoldjimbo

    seeking detailed maricat diagram

    The long ones go on the bow, the short ones on the side. The large D shackle on the mast should have the long forestays in the middle then the shrouds on the outside. Rig the mast shackle then put the forestays on. Lift the mast so it's standing upright on the ground just in front of the mast step on the front beam. Once you have it steady lift and slot the base into the mast step. You should be able to do this in one smooth motion and just let the mast fall back with the forestays stopping it falling on the ground. Once it's like this you should be able to then attach the shrouds. What I've done in the past (and still do when it's windy) is to attach a rope (eg the mainsheet) to the halyard and then pull it on so that it is tight. The triangulation of the forestays and the haylard will make it safe long enough to attach the shrouds. In the racing world we use forestays at 5.5m and shrouds at 5m. This gives a good mast rake but if you've got an old sail the boom may be too low. When you start sailing and keep nose diving (going down the mine!) then you should consider this extra rake and get a sailmaker to put a D ring on the back of the sail about 150mm up from the old one. Would help you a lot if you could find a local club that has maricats. Good luck.
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