knobblyoldjimbo

Note Darcy's note about 6mm in the other thread.

Yes, about. I think mine were 52 from Jimmy Buckland. Sadly he's retired now.

I think it's 8mm. Nothing fancy. Mine are on a 2:1 line so line from front of tiller, round block and into cleat. The block is tied to the rudder down thing. The cleats are alloy so pretty strong. When I first used them we had a windy day at Budgewoi. When I overstood the top mark and was close reaching to the mark the windward rudder came up. There would have been a lot of force. Once I got in I tweaked the little cam which fixed it easily.

You could try using a tarp. Cut to shape and use good double sided tape to stick it together. Or use your wife's sewing machine but that might cause a permanent suspension of Saturday night treats!

You can do quite a bit with what you have. 1. To allow the mast take that we use now (5.5m forests, 5m shrouds) you get a sailmaker to sew a D ring into the leech about 6" from the clew. Don't need to bother getting the foot cut away. It doesn't flap much. 2. The bolt rope has probably gone hard and shrunk. This creates a terrible shaped in the sail. If you examine the tack you'll see that the bolt rope has been sewn in. Cut the stitches and let the bolt rope slide up. This will get you a lot further. Alternatively replace the bolt rope. Attach some line to the end, cut the stitches at the other end and pull the bolt rope out. Replace it with 8mm silver rope and restitch just the top. Leave the tack end with about 300mm which will move up as you use the sail. I just did this on a quite new sail, about 7 years old. The old rope had elongated, teardrop shape so it jammed in the mast track.

I think Mick's devices will cost a lot more than the CL257 cleats plus as Rodney says you need to set them so they release. This is done by sanding away at the fibreglass clamps. If you go too far you have to start again! The CL257s have a little screw that you turn.

3mm will do, spectra is best. I use Clamcleat CL257 cleats to hold them, they are alloy and release on impact.

Best bet would be to take it to a local club that has cats, someone is likely to be able to help.

B

Call Darcy, his phone number is in this section. Answer is yes but you'll need different forestay setup abd jib sheet brackets at the least. But, there are many who just sail with a mainsail. Once you master tacking they are a good single hander.

Look through this forum and you'll find numbers for Mick Colecliff for anything new and Darcy Wilson for second hand. The Brisbane Catermaran centre will probably make you a new boat!

Here you go, looks a bit convoluted here but basically you fill a bag with water and lean out on the righting line. I think righting took less time using my own body weight!

Ask Darcy, he'll have one. Recently I sailed one of his Mari's with a Mid North Coast radial sail, very nice it was. James

On one of my Maricats there wasn't a bag so I used one from Whitworths, doesn't need to be a large one, I think mine was small. You can tie it to the dolphin striker fitting if you don't want holes. That holds the righting rope. You definitely need one although in about ten years of 'catting I've only capsized about three times (I know, not trying hard enough!). One of the Paper Tiger guys had a small rope ladder tucked into a pocket that had a zip flap! He had a heart condition so couldn't easily get back on board. There are all sorts of bright ideas about righting poles etc but on a mari you really don't need one. When righting it is essential that the main is uncleated and if you have a vang uncleat that as well or you won't get it up.

You have good adjustment in the mainsheet, pull in hard and tight uphill and the forestays will tighten, let off and it loosens. Bit like a backstay adjustment on lead mines.