knobblyoldjimbo

Mast base Try this. Most cut the base so it points to the shrouds. The tag on the mast end needs to be trimmed so the pointy bit sits in the hole. Mine is black because I had a can!

When you take the tramp off my cat, just behind the front beam there is a patch, very tough and would probably have been made in order to effect a repair. I saw one of the gun windy sailors who had done the same except you couldn't see the repair at all. If you cut a hole in the hull bear the top you could repair your soft spot and put the patch back quite effectively.

Also you have to grind the mast step when you take the mast. Just the rear and possibly a bit of the mast base.

Just coated, doesn't matter what colour, at least 8 don't see anyone complaining. Don't forget the dolphin striker.

They use a zipper luff I think.

Here's an example, or three!

There are a lot of wrinkles in the luff so I'd pull the mainsheet in hard then pull the downhaul hard too. The main isn't right up to the top which either means it's shrunk or that someone has cut it down.

Comments 1. Toss the vang, the only thing it does is prevent you righting after a capsize. 2. The tack of the sail (bottom) shackles onto the boom. The downhaul then attached to the boom. You therefore pull the boom down to tension the luff of the sail. 3. The clew shackles to the slider on the boom.

The long ones go on the bow, the short ones on the side. The large D shackle on the mast should have the long forestays in the middle then the shrouds on the outside. Rig the mast shackle then put the forestays on. Lift the mast so it's standing upright on the ground just in front of the mast step on the front beam. Once you have it steady lift and slot the base into the mast step. You should be able to do this in one smooth motion and just let the mast fall back with the forestays stopping it falling on the ground. Once it's like this you should be able to then attach the shrouds. What I've done in the past (and still do when it's windy) is to attach a rope (eg the mainsheet) to the halyard and then pull it on so that it is tight. The triangulation of the forestays and the haylard will make it safe long enough to attach the shrouds. In the racing world we use forestays at 5.5m and shrouds at 5m. This gives a good mast rake but if you've got an old sail the boom may be too low. When you start sailing and keep nose diving (going down the mine!) then you should consider this extra rake and get a sailmaker to put a D ring on the back of the sail about 150mm up from the old one. Would help you a lot if you could find a local club that has maricats. Good luck.

This is from the Facebook page of Tanilba Bay SC From the commentary there'll be a bunch of different boats - Moth's, H18's F18's plus a gaggle of 14's. Apparently the reservoir is 9m deep so plenty of room for the foilers. 2018 PHILS BENEFIT SAILING DAY 18TH AUGUST 2018 A Benefit Day is being organised to raise funds to help our member Phil Johnston who is dying of brain cancer and has a loving wife and two teenage daughters. We want to support this family going through this rough journey. The venue is Grahamstown Dam Sailing Club (6 Grahamstown Road, Medowie NSW 2318) Entry is open to all off the beach catamarans and mono hulls (including Trailer sailers). Four races are scheduled for the Regatta. Registration 900 to 1100 Competitor Briefing 1130 First Warning Signal not before 1230 DIVISIONS -Catamarans 4.3m and under -Catamarans 4.4m and over -Mono hulls -Trailer Sailors Barbecue lunch will be available and maybe an after sailing BBQ. BYOG We look forward to welcoming you on the day. For further information contact Mick Colecliffe, Racing Secretary, Tanilba Bay Sailing Club 0419 999 785

Sounds par for the course! You could try Rohan of Mid North Sailes (I think) I don't know his number but others might. He's certainly doing mains for a very good price and I'd bet that he's also done the plans for a tramp since he turned up with a very well presented boat the other year.

In superlight weather I pull the main in tight, then to counter the hook in the leech I pull the downhaul. When rigged do this - sheet in tight then downhaul - you'll notice the leech will fall away which in light is good but in medium means you'll not be able to point.

You can do things to old sails to get some life out of them. One is to cut the bolt rope from its anchor at the bottom ( a few stitches). I did this to my Eastwind sail and the rope disappeared about a foot or so up the slot. A tight rope means the luff is crinkled and the body of the sail falls back which isn't fast. +1 on the rudder. Look up Ackerman steering. This is why the tillers are bent inwards. There's a measurement (which I don't understand!) but on cats your hulls go at different speeds and radius when turning. Stays 5.5m front and 5 rear. Remember that the tighter you have the mainsheet the tighter the jib luff will be. I would think you'd be in front of the Getaway and the H14 but behind the 16's. The Sailing Australia yardsticks should be an indication. Just as a guide we did a long race at Speers Point on Anzac Day. The line winner was a Maricat Super Sloop (foam) and was quite a long way ahead of me (2nd over the line). Once they'd unstuffed the handicaps (they did me as a SS foamy!) I won it. My calculation was about a minute ahead, Mark was a good five minutes in front on the line. I also noticed Mark (SS) sailing off the start line with jib literally flapping in order to get height. Once clear of other boats he bore away to use the jib for speed. Sand the hulls - don't need to go too far but maybe 120 then 600 makes them smooth. Same with the rudders they have quite a large whetted area - fill in the chips with Epoxy Filler. They talk about toe-in and I think this refers to hulls as well. I've seen rear beams that have the bolt holes drilled oval so the gap can be adjusted. Not sure what the gap should be though. Tramp should be as tight as possible.

Oh, and thanks for asking, it's always nice to get the brain cells going.