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Hockeye

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Hockeye last won the day on April 2 2018

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About Hockeye

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 03/23/1946

core_pfieldgroups_99

  • Location
    Melb, Vic, Australia
  • Interests
    Sailing, surfing and sipping
  • Occupation
    Engineer

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Anglesea Victoria
  • Interests
    Home reno's and sailing

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  1. Hockeye

    Windrush fleets in the Geelong area

    Hi Manni Have you decided to buy (or have bought) a Windrush 14? I have one at Anglesea, c/w trailer. It's in reasonable to good condition. It's sloop rigged and I have a spare mainsail, hulls, tramp frame and tramp (all in worn condition). I've sailed cats for 30+ years but health issues mean that I'm no longer able. BTW I've seen Windrush cats at Portarlington, St Leonards and Indented Heads. They probably race in season on handicap against other cats. I've sailed mine solo off Pt Roadknight at Anglesea a couple of times, in races with The Anglesea Motor Yacht Squadron which comprises about 6-8 Hobies. Contact me on this forum if you want to discuss. Cheers Bruce Golder
  2. Hockeye

    Is this a Hawke surfcat?

    My first cat was a Hawke, which I bought from Hawke in Perth when I had a 1 year stint there in 1975. It was cat rigged. The sail was very flat cut and I found that it was an impediment to winning races, so I bought another one with a much better cut sail. It's selling points over Mari's and perhaps Windies at the time were:- Fuller in the bows to help prevent cartwheels Fixed rudders which could withstand beach approaches (Same as early Windies) Good in surf Car toppable! Yes! Owners fitted over-length roof racks, sat the de-rigged hulls next to the car, simply rolled the yacht onto one hull to hook the tramp side beam onto the racks, lift the lower hull to horizontal and simply slide it across the racks. The mast simply sat on the upturned tramp and was tethered to the front and rear of the car. A bloke at a S/W WA servo asked me what it was on the roof of my car. I told him that it was a set of pontoons in case I flipped the car over into a lake!! Very simple to rig with snap hooks and tensioning ropes on the forestays (like earlier Windies) The Sales person was Colin Metcher and he formed a mobile surf-cat club. Our home beach was Whitfords, north of Perth where at the right tide and wind, we could surf over an outer reef. However we had some great sails at Bunbury, Albany, Esperance and Yanchep, as well as on the Swan. If we wanted to sail under a low bridge on the Swan, we simply turned them on their sides and floated under with the current, which was the case when we entered the Avon Descent. During my ownership of the Hawke I snapped 3 masts in surf when I broached and the next wave hit the tramp whilst the mast dug into the sand! There was an annual Whitfords to Yanchep race in which I hooked onto a crayfish pot rope and marker buoy. It was impossible to unhook the rope from in front of the fixed leeward rudder whilst driving on a beat and I ended up bottled. Indeed they were a Mari rip-off but cheaper and fun sailing, quite fast with the right guy on the tiller. I've found my sloop rigged Mk 1 Windie much more technical to sail and more parts to go wrong, however a better yacht. to sail. The Hawke was well designed at the cross beam supports and cave-ins were unknown. So maybe the Hawke was developed pre-Windie? There are still a lot around. They're easy to identify apart from the logo on the sail; (mine had a stylised H), They have a 4 sided tramp frame with lacing all around. This is another feature which allows even tension around the tramp to keep it taut.
  3. Hockeye

    Maricat Hiking Stick Needed

    Just a couple of comments from my experience. 1. When attaching the rubber UJ or a swivel gooseneck to the rudder tie bar, don't drill through the complete diameter of the tie bar. The bolt holes seriously weaken the rudder bar and it will ultimately fail through the drilled plane, just when you are approaching the finishing line on a reach with no yachts in front of you! Just rivet the fitting through one wall of the diameter. 2. I used 20 mm electrical conduit for my battle stick because it has thicker wall and seems to be more flexible than uPVC. 3. I also wound 2.5 mm cord around the grip of the stick for about 150 mm and placed a rubber stopper on the end. Place a clove hitch at each end of the cord. (Get a Scout to show you how!)
  4. Hockeye

    Recovery after capsize

    Thanks guys. I do have a windward helm although just. The tiller extension always has tension on a reach and the Windie rounds up if I let it go. However on the day, the gusting wind was moving around and I think my mainsheet may be slightly too short. Good suggestion Darcy; I'll give it a try on a light breeze day. My weight on the bow may cause some problems and I'd need to get past the jib sheets but it's worth a try.
  5. I had an unfortunate capsize during a race last season which may have been more serious if I was out sailing alone. At the first mark my Windie did a backflip as I turned through the wind onto the opposite tack. We had gusting winds, in fact a coastal race had been postponed for safety and a local circuit replaced it. My sloop rigged Windie bottled completely and I had 2 goes at righting it, each time for it to roll over to the leeward side. I finally got it upright and it started sailing with all sheets off! At this stage I was still in the water, exhausted. I didn't have the strength to get back on board and had to wait for the crash boat to pick me up and chase the yacht down after I let it go. I've been reluctant to get back on the yacht since, although I've had many thrilling rides on it as a lone sailor. Note that I'm 70yo and 114kg. (I think I must have been too far astern as I rounded the mark.) I'm thinking of putting foot holds in my righting ropes in case a similar thing happens, so that I can at least get my chest up to tramp height. Does anyone have an alternative suggestion on how to get back aboard with minimal effort? Maybe it's time to retire to the beach!!?? Hockeye
  6. Hockeye

    Beam punching into hull

    I had a beam connection collapse on an old pair of hulls when I cartwheeled in a strong wind. Actually I think I did the damage standing on the hull trying to right the yacht!! I did glass it up fairly successfully but my damaged hull leaked afterwards. I was able to buy a secondhand pair of hulls in better condition, complete with cross members and tramp for $100. The bonus was that they had forward hatches fitted with foam bulkheads. I weigh 112kg so the stress on the beam to hull connections in a strong wind can be very high, so I suggest you do a good job of the fix, otherwise you'll get another cave-in. BTW my old hulls are available FOC if you can make it to Vic!
  7. Hi Guys I've got a pair of Mk1 hulls for sale complete with tramp frame and a a re-stitched tramp.I swapped them out for a better pair of hulls which I've restored to water tight condition. All in fair condition. Port hull partly failed at rear beam connection. Have re-fibreglassed it but still some leaks somewhere. Would be a good project or single hull replacement for an existing damaged Windie. Hulls are yellow and otherwise quite solid for the recreational sailor. Located at Anglesea on Victoria's west coast but dismantled and deliverable on a 6x4 trailer. $50 the lot!. Thanks Hockeye 0409 970 368
  8. Hockeye

    Painting Windie Hulls

    Thanks Jimbo I will still be lacing with cord between the electrical conduit and the hooks on my rear beam as per standard Windie tramps, so I'll be able to get tension on the tramp. I've decided not to go ahead with the paint job as suggested by Slammin. Think I'll give the hulls a good water blast then a cut and polish. I'm finding that gel coat is good for filling minor dings etc, providing I grind or sand first. It can be built up over several coats then sanded back. It sets off rock hard as it's epoxy based.
  9. Hockeye

    Painting Windie Hulls

    Not a bad idea Slammin! I'm dying to get it out in a blow and new paint won't make it perceptively faster. Perhaps a good cut and polish may do the trick. Just bought new bungs but the threads don't match the female part. So I bought new bung assemblies, only to find that the boss on the female part is larger than the originals, ie 25 mm vs 20 mm originals. I now have to plug the bung holes in the transoms and drill out using a hole saw! What else will stop me sailing???!!!
  10. Hockeye

    Painting Windie Hulls

    Hi Badboy Thanks for your comments. You have only mentioned cleaning the wax etc off the hulls prior to painting with 2-Pack. Shouldn't I sand the hulls as well to get an adequate key for the new paint or does it just bond to the existing gel coat? My Windie has manufacturing details engraved behind the rear cross member on the starboard side. It also has forward hatches. It appears that 50 mm thick polystyrene bulkheads have been retro-fitted into the hulls (the forward hatches are larger), presumably after the original plywood bulkheads rotted out. Some of the bulkheads are loose since they have been "glued" in using expanding foam which doesn't really take to the fibreglass. I plan to re-glue them using SikaFlex Marine adhesive. BTW I recently had a new tramp made by John Vials, a motor trimmer located at Pt Macquarie. He was referred to me by Darcy. John is more used to making Maricat tramps so I ended up with a hybrid version. There are loops on the rear of the tramp thru which I need to place a 20 mm electrical plastic conduit on which to lace to the rear cross beam. John also missed on stitching down the trailing ends of the foot straps, but I can get that done locally by a sailmaker. A warning to everyone, make sure you measure the precise distance between your sail tracks on the hulls to ensure that the tramp slides on taut! Even subtract a mm or 2. I found a few mm difference between my old Mk1 hulls and the new S/H Mk 2 hulls. Any further advice would be appreciated.
  11. Hi All I'm restoring a pair of Mk2 Windie hulls. Includes filling in dings and scrapes and new fibregalss strips on the keels. Otherwise they're in good condition. The hulls are (were) white but have been stained by immersion in red mud. Indeed the new gel coat is much whiter! I'm thinking of painting the hulls a new colour, but not the decks. Do you have some advice on preparation and best paint to be used? Is brush painting an option or should I be looking to spray paint? As a side issue, I'm replacing my mainsheet. I sail sloop rigged (no trapeze). My existing mainsheet runs right out to the blocks when on a run but the mainsail doesn't touch the shrouds. I have a triple block on the rear traveller and a double block on the boom. What is the ideal length for the sheet? I'm thinking 8M. Thanks Hockeye
  12. Hockeye

    Removing a tramp?

    Thanks Ogre I'd be most interested in the S/H tramp ex SA if it's better than the one on my Mk1 Windie, which I was going to swap onto the Mk2 hulls. Let me know if it's still for sale. I also have got forward hatches behind the main beam. In fact I've replaced the old hatches with slightly larger 150 mm hatches. Like you say, I'm leaving them un bolted until I've finished work inside the hulls. My polystyrene bulkheads are in reasonable condition and generally glued in using expanding foam. However I note that the foam hasn't taken a grip on the fibreglass hull in some accessible locations. Therefore I'm keen to know what is the best stuff to glue the foam to the fibreglass. Polyester resin may do the trick. Hockeye
  13. Hockeye

    Removing a tramp?

    Thanks for your advice guys. My tramp,came off easily once I gave it a starting tug on each side! Thought it would be a marathon effort. It's rotted SO where's the best place to get a new one? Darcy do you have any for sale in good condition? Have checked out the foam bulkheads in my new S/H Mk2 and some are loose. Whats the best gupe to glue the polystyrene to the internals of the hulls? The previous owner used expanding foam. NFG!
  14. Hockeye

    Removing a tramp?

    By the way, has anyone got some advice on replacement of the non-slip "carpet" on the decks? I've removed all the old stuff and scraped off the glue. Yacht parts suppliers only have the non slip white stick on stuff with the orange peel surface. This tends to curl at the edges over time and becomes unsightly. I also doubt that it provides enough grip when sailing wet. Hockeye
  15. Hockeye

    Removing a tramp?

    It's probably been posted here before but how do I remove and replace my Windie tramp? I'm aware that the hulls can be separated from the cross members (with a bit of effort). Do I then slide the hulls off the tramp, then the tramp off the front cross member? Or is there as easier way by pulling the tramp out of the lead-in/lead-out of the tramp tracks on the hulls? BTW, I've just bought a pair of S/H Mk2 hulls in reasonable condition, complete with tramp and beams. (Has a S/No stamped on the RHR of the rear cross member.) Has no gel cracks around the beam ends where connected to the hulls. However has gel cracks along the deck/hull interface due to being sailed super sloop rigged and too much foot pressure on the hulls. Interestingly it has forward hatches. about 150 mm dia with 2 levels of 50 mm thick horizontal polystyrene in the bows and a poly bulkhead just in front of the forward cross member. Someone has squirted a lot of expanding foam in there to keep the polystyrene in place. I'll need to re-glass the keels and fix a few nicks and dings, but I think I'll end up with some sound hulls onto which I'll transfer all my gear off my Mk1. Any comments or advice would be appreciated. Hockeye
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