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SGS83

Windrush Trapeze help

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Just wondering if anyone has any pictures of or can help out with the set up of trap wires on a 14 foot windrush? This boat has been a bit of a fixer upper but I'm almost there, apart from the trapeze that is. I've got some wires and on the end of each wire is a 'dogbone' attached to it. After that I've got nothing. If anyone could help that'd be great.Thanks Steve

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So, stainless steel 'dogbones' ?  When one is lowest it's a little longer than when the other is lowest?  These are the rings that clip onto your trap harness.  Usually they're attached by rope to a swage above which is the trap handle (usually plastic with hole in the middle, stops at the swage).

 

Once rigged you clip on, grab the handle and manouvre yourself over the side, then release the handle and hope that everything is going to hold up, otherwise you'll be swimming!

 

The line between your dog bones and the swage should allow you to adjust the height of the dog bones to allow you to have some adjustment.  Really keen types have a 2:1 block and jam cleat in the full confidence that neither will break or let go causing you to go swimming.

 

You might detect that I don't like traps!

 

Oh, the other end of the dog bone end should attach to the hounds fitting.

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Steve, try zooming in on my pic in my other post of the boat set up on the beach. I can also send you some pics when I'm back in Adelaide on Sunday of my set up

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There should be some elastic shock cord going from one side of the boat to the other attached to the rope that is attached to the dogbones so that it pulls the dogbones upwards holding them onto your trap hook, when learning the rope attached to your dogbones should be set so that you can sit on the hull of your boat and only just pull the dogbone over your trap hook this lets you trap higher, as you get better you can lower the height of your dogbones,

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Thanks everyone, I think what has thrown me is that the trap wires are attached directly to the dog bones (without any rope etc between them for adjustments) Is it possible to have a non adjustable trapeze? I understand this is not ideal tho. Sounds like I might be best to start fresh and maybe re use the dogbones on a new set up as one of the wires isnt exactly in great condition anyways.

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 Just watch out for those dog bones when they are not being used & they are dangling & swinging about (held by the shock cord tension) , I have had a bad tooth chip from those flying objects.  I now use the Hobie trapeze rings which are plastic coated and a lot healthier to contact. FYI I have also now gone to 2 or 2.5 mm Dynema rope instead of trapeze wires. been working well for a few seasons now.

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Hi all,

20 years ago I rigged my own trapeze on my father's Windrush.

I used a fixed (non-adjustable) rope between the grip handle and the dog bone as I was nervous about having a cleat that might either slip or uncleat completely at the moment of jumping out.

It worked fine for me - but I just had to get out on the water a few times and make adjustments before I got it just right in terms of where I wanted my feet to be and how far out I wanted to sit etc.

I was the only one on trapeze in our family, so it didn't need to be adjusted for other people.

 

The other thing I did was attach the shock cord to the top of the dog bone (in the picture in the post above - the lower light blue arrow). This meant that only the dog bone itself was able to flop around and the rest of the system was kept relatively taught down the side-stays and across the tramp.

 

There are obviously other ways of doing it - and quite likely better ones..... but that's my experience (as best I can remember it now anyway) for you   :-)

 

Clint

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Clint

 

This system is tried and proven, more importantly its simple. To save your teeth and I've like a few more have had that smash in the mouth, replaced the dogbone with a single 3/16 50mm ring. Works a treat.

 

Paul

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